Melanzane a Funghetto
La Conserva: Late Summer Rituals and the Winter Pantry
This isn't a dish containing mushrooms, but a masterclass in domestic engineering from the agrarian heart of Campania. A single, humble eggplant is cubed, brutally purged of its bitter waters, and fried in hot oil until it takes on the dense, meaty texture of sautéed mushrooms. Sunk into a blistered cherry tomato sauce and perfumed with torn basil, it is a triumph of cucina povera that demands nothing more than a handful of supermarket ingredients and the patience to let it rest. Grandma didn't skip the salting ritual, and neither should you.
Before you start
Purge the eggplant.
Place the cubed eggplant in a large colander in the sink. Toss generously with the kosher salt, place a plate on top, and weigh it down with a heavy can or jar for 45 to 60 minutes.
Rinse and extract the moisture.
Rinse the eggplant under cold water to remove the salt. Working by the handful, wrap in a clean kitchen towel and squeeze aggressively to wring out as much water as humanly possible.
Ingredients
- small Italian eggplants2 lb
- kosher salt1/4 cup
- peanut or sunflower oil2 cup
- extra-virgin olive oil3 tbsp
- garlic cloves2 large
- cherry or grape tomatoes1 lb
- fresh basil1 small bunch
Method
- 01
Fry the eggplant a doratura.
In a wide, deep skillet, heat about an inch of the peanut oil over medium-high until it reaches 350°F. Fry the eggplant in batches, avoiding overcrowding, until the edges are a deep, rich golden brown (about 5 to 7 minutes per batch). Transfer to a paper towel-lined baking sheet to drain.
- 02
Build the aromatic base.
Carefully dispose of the frying oil and wipe out the skillet. Add the extra-virgin olive oil and crushed garlic over medium-low heat. Sauté gently until the garlic is pale gold and fragrant, about 2 to 3 minutes, then remove and discard the cloves.
- 03
Simmer the sugo.
Increase heat to medium-high and add the halved tomatoes. Cook aggressively, tossing often, until they burst and break down into a chunky, rustic sauce, about 10 minutes. Add a 1/4 cup splash of water if the pan looks too dry.
- 04
Marry the ingredients.
Fold the fried eggplant into the bubbling tomato sauce. Lower the heat and simmer together for 5 minutes so the eggplant acts as a sponge, pulling the sweet, acidic juices into its matrix.
- 05
Rest before serving.
Turn off the heat and fold in the torn basil. Transfer to a platter and let the dish rest at room temperature for at least 30 minutes; serving it piping hot masks the subtle sweetness of the vegetables.
Notes
The secret of time.
Never serve this boiling hot. It tastes exponentially better slightly warm, at room temperature, or straight from the fridge the next day once the flavors have settled and cross-pollinated.
Don't fear the fry.
Properly purged and dried eggplant repels excess oil. While you can roast it in a pinch, frying is the non-negotiable ancestral technique for that perfectly tender, meaty texture.
From Cook Italian in America.