Mekitsi

Ingredients

• active dry yeast2 1/4 tsp
• warm water1 cup
• granulated sugar1 tbsp
• plain whole milk Greek yogurt3/4 cup
• whole milk1/4 cup
• baking soda1 tsp
• egg1 large
• white vinegar1 tbsp
• sunflower oil1 tbsp
• kosher salt1 tsp
• unbleached all-purpose flour4 cup
• sunflower oil3 cup
• Bulgarian sirene cheese or firm feta1/2 lb
• strawberry or raspberry jam1/2 cup

Method

1. 01

   Bloom the yeast in a large mixing bowl.

   Combine the warm water, active dry yeast, and granulated sugar. Stir gently and let it sit for about 10 minutes until it becomes highly foamy and smells strongly of yeast.

2. 02

   Quench the baking soda in the thinned yogurt.

   In a separate small bowl, whisk the Greek yogurt, milk, and baking soda together. The acidity of the yogurt will immediately react with the soda, causing the mixture to puff up and become bubbly over the next few minutes.

3. 03

   Mix the wet ingredients into the foamy yeast.

   Add the bubbly yogurt mixture, egg, white vinegar, one tablespoon of sunflower oil, and kosher salt into the large bowl with the yeast. Whisk everything together until fully combined.

4. 04

   Incorporate the flour without overworking or kneading the dough.

   Add the flour one cup at a time, mixing with a sturdy wooden spoon. The dough will look incredibly sticky, shaggy, and wet. Stop mixing once the dry streaks disappear; attempting to knead it or add more flour for a smooth texture will ruin the light, airy crumb.

5. 05

   Retard the dough in the refrigerator overnight.

   Cover the bowl tightly with plastic wrap and leave it in the refrigerator for 8 to 24 hours. This slow, cold fermentation develops a complex flavor and relaxes the gluten so the highly-hydrated dough won't snap back when stretched.

6. 06

   Heat the frying oil in a heavy skillet.

   Remove the dough from the fridge 30 minutes before frying to take the chill off. Pour about an inch and a half of sunflower oil into a heavy-bottomed skillet or Dutch oven and heat over medium-high until the oil reaches 350°F.

7. 07

   Stretch the dough outward from the center using heavily oiled hands.

   Pour a couple of tablespoons of cooking oil into a small dish to coat your fingers—do not use flour on a board. Tear off a piece of wet dough slightly larger than a golf ball and use your oiled fingers to gently stretch it into a rustic, uneven circle about 5 inches across, leaving the edges thicker than the middle.

8. 08

   Fry the dough while basting the top with hot oil to create massive bubbles.

   Carefully lower the stretched dough into the hot oil. Immediately use a spoon to splash some of the hot frying oil over the exposed top of the dough. This forces the trapped gases to violently expand upward, forming beautiful, crispy blisters. Fry for 1 to 2 minutes per side until deep golden brown.

9. 09

   Drain on paper towels and serve immediately.

   Remove with a slotted spoon or tongs, allowing the excess oil to drip away. Serve hot, taking alternating bites of the crispy dough swiped in jam and the salty sirene cheese.

Notes

• Replicating authentic Bulgarian yogurt.

  Standard American Greek yogurt is too heavily strained. Thinning it out with a small amount of milk perfectly mimics the tart, fluid consistency of Bulgarian kiselo mlyako, which is absolutely necessary to correctly trigger the baking soda.

• The grandmother's grease-repelling secret.

  Traditional village recipes utilize a splash of strong fruit brandy (rakia) in the dough, which flashes into steam upon hitting the hot oil, creating a barrier that physically pushes grease out of the crumb. White vinegar performs the exact same chemical trick without altering the flavor.

• Embrace the rustic, uneven shape.

  True mekitsi are meant to look handmade and irregular. Never use a rolling pin; it will crush the delicate pockets of gas developed by the dual-leavening system overnight.