Massa com Atum
The Soul of the Kitchen: O Refogado & A Despensa
Start with the pop of a pull-tab on a tin of oil-packed tuna while boxed macaroni rattles in the pot, pulling a masterpiece of domestic economy straight from the pantry. By building a slow, deliberate, dark-gold refogado and emulsifying it with starchy pasta water—forget the soggy, mayonnaise-laden tuna casseroles of the 1950s—those imported tins of Portuguese tuna bring Tuesday night salvation to the American Midwest. Keep the oil, toss it all in the skillet, and eat.
Ingredients
- dried short pasta12 oz
- extra-virgin olive oil3 tbsp
- yellow onion1 med
- garlic3 med clove
- dried bay leaf1 med
- dry white wine1/4 cup
- tomato passata1 cup
- dried oregano1 tsp
- red pepper flakes1/4 tsp
- solid tuna in extra-virgin olive oil12 oz
- fresh parsley2 tbsp
- kosher saltto taste
- black pepperto taste
Method
- 01
Boil the pasta in heavily salted water until al dente.
Just before draining the pasta, carefully scoop out and reserve about one cup of the starchy cooking water—this is the grandmother's secret to a cohesive, glossy sauce.
- 02
Build the foundational refogado.
Place a large, deep skillet over medium heat with the olive oil, adding the finely diced onion and bay leaf to sweat gently for 5 to 7 minutes until translucent and sweet, being careful not to let them brown.
- 03
Bloom the aromatics and deglaze the skillet.
Stir in the minced garlic and red pepper flakes for one minute until fragrant, then pour in the white wine and let it bubble and reduce until the harsh alcohol smell cooks off.
- 04
Simmer the tomato base.
Pour in the tomato passata and dried oregano, season with a pinch of salt and black pepper, and lower the heat to let the sauce simmer gently for about 5 minutes so the flavors meld.
- 05
Emulsify the sauce and gently warm the tuna.
Pour half a cup of the reserved pasta water into the tomato sauce and stir vigorously until slightly glossy, then add the tuna directly from the cans, using a wooden spoon to break it into satisfying chunks without boiling it.
- 06
Bring the dish together.
Toss the cooked, drained pasta into the skillet, folding everything together gently until every noodle is coated. Add another splash of pasta water if it looks dry, then remove from the heat, discard the bay leaf, and fold in the fresh parsley before serving.
Notes
The Pasta Water Emulsion.
The most critical flaw in diaspora pasta dishes is dryness. Saving half a cup of that cloudy, starchy boiling water and stirring it into the tomato base is the absolute secret to a succulent dish that coats the pasta perfectly.
Sourcing the Tuna.
The quality of the tinned fish dictates the quality of this meal. Seek out solid tuna packed in high-quality extra-virgin olive oil—never water, which results in a dry, chalky texture.
Pantry Substitutions.
If you cannot find passata, high-quality crushed canned tomatoes work perfectly. If you only have tomato paste, bloom three tablespoons of it in the hot oil with the garlic, then thin the sauce out with an extra half cup of pasta water.