Manestra
Μανέστρα·(mah-NES-tra)
Yiayia's Pot on the Stove (Survival and Comfort)
A heavy Dutch oven. Half a box of orzo. A tomato broth that thickens as it sits on the back burner. Born of post-war necessity, manestra begins with grating ripe tomatoes by hand. In the Greek diaspora, heavy, meat-laden braises often masquerade as manestra, but the flavor comes from technique. It lies in toasting the pasta in rich olive oil, blooming the tomato paste to unlock its umami, and relying on a whisper of allspice to fill the room with the smell of toasted starch and hot cinnamon. Ladle it into a deep bowl while the broth is still loose, and keep a block of feta on the table.
Ingredients
- extra-virgin olive oil1/4 cup
- yellow onion1 large
- garlic2 small
- tomato paste2 tbsp
- medium orzo1 cup
- crushed tomatoes15 oz
- chicken or vegetable broth3 1/2 cup
- whole allspice berries3
- cinnamon stick1 small
- kosher salt1 tsp
- black pepper1/2 tsp
- feta cheese1/4 cup
Method
- 01
Build the aromatic foundation.
In a heavy-bottomed pot or Dutch oven, heat the olive oil over medium heat, add the onion, and sauté for 5 to 7 minutes until translucent and just beginning to caramelize, then stir in the garlic for 1 minute more.
- 02
Toast the paste and pasta.
Push the onions to the side and drop the tomato paste directly into the center of the oil, frying it for about 2 minutes until it deepens to a rusty brick hue to cook out the raw metallic taste. Pour in the dry orzo, stirring well to coat every grain in the red oil, and toast for 1 to 2 minutes.
- 03
Add the liquid and spices.
Pour in the crushed tomatoes and the hot broth, dropping in the allspice berries, cinnamon stick, salt, and pepper. Stir thoroughly to combine.
- 04
Simmer and stir like risotto.
Bring the pot to a gentle boil, then immediately reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer uncovered. Use a flat wooden spoon to stir frequently for 15 to 20 minutes, scraping the bottom of the pot to prevent the starch-heavy orzo from sticking.
- 05
Let the carryover heat finish the job.
When the orzo is al dente and the sauce has thickened but still looks slightly too wet or soupy, immediately remove the pot from the heat. Cover with a lid and let it rest for 5 to 10 minutes so the pasta can absorb the remaining liquid, creating a perfectly velvety texture without drying out.
- 06
Garnish and serve.
Remove the cinnamon stick and allspice berries if you can find them. Ladle into shallow bowls and top generously with crumbled feta and a drizzle of fresh olive oil.
Notes
The empty can trick.
To extract every last bit of value from your ingredients just like a Greek grandmother would, pour your measured hot broth into the empty crushed tomato can to rinse out the remaining juices before pouring it into the pot.
From Cook Greek in America.