Madzoonov Hav

Madzoonov Hav

Մածունով հավ·(mah-dzoo-nov hahv)

The Suburban Kebab (Quick Weeknight Dinners)

Long before yogurt was a staple of the American breakfast aisle, it was the secret weapon of the Armenian kitchen. Brought over by immigrants who peddled horse-drawn wagons of madzoon through New England, this fermented dairy is the ultimate meat tenderizer. We're skipping the heavy stews here and going straight for the backyard grill. The lactic acid gently breaks down the chicken thighs, while the milk solids char beautifully over an open flame, giving you the authentic taste of a Caucasian khorovats on a random Tuesday night. The real grandma trick is a hit of dried tsitron, or summer savory. It smells exactly like the old country and separates a generic chicken skewer from a true taste of home.

Before you start

  • Soak your skewers.

    If using bamboo skewers instead of metal, be sure to submerge them in water for 20 minutes before grilling so they do not catch fire.

  • Marinate in the morning.

    This is the ultimate prep-ahead meal. Assembling the marinade in the morning before work lets the yogurt work its magic all day, making weeknight assembly effortless.

Ingredients

  • boneless skinless chicken thighs2 lb
  • whole milk plain yogurt1 cup
  • garlic4 med clove
  • yellow onion1/2 med
  • sweet paprika1 tbsp
  • dried summer savory1 tbsp
  • black pepper1 tsp
  • Aleppo pepper1/2 tsp
  • kosher salt1 1/2 tsp
  • olive oil2 tbsp
  • lemon juice1 tbsp

Method

  1. 01

    Mix the yogurt marinade.

    In a large mixing bowl, whisk together the yogurt, grated garlic, grated onion and its juices, olive oil, lemon juice, paprika, summer savory, black pepper, Aleppo pepper, and salt until it forms a smooth, pastel-orange paste.

  2. 02

    Coat the chicken.

    Add the cubed chicken thighs to the bowl and use your hands to massage the yogurt mixture deeply into the meat.

  3. 03

    Let it marinate.

    Cover the bowl with plastic wrap or transfer everything to a large zip-top bag and refrigerate. It needs at least 3 hours, but 8 to 12 hours is where the magic happens.

  4. 04

    Thread the skewers.

    Thirty minutes before cooking, remove the chicken from the fridge to take the chill off. Thread the pieces snugly onto your skewers. Do not wipe off the excess yogurt marinade; you want it clinging to the meat.

  5. 05

    Grill over high heat.

    Preheat your grill to medium-high and oil the grates well. Grill the skewers for 5 to 7 minutes per side. You are looking for distinct, dark char marks where the yogurt solids have caramelized.

  6. 06

    Rest and serve.

    Pull the chicken off the heat and let it rest for 3 minutes before serving immediately alongside rice pilaf and fresh lavash.

Notes

  • Finding summer savory.

    If you absolutely cannot find summer savory (tsitron) in the spice aisle or a local Middle Eastern market, substitute 2 teaspoons of dried thyme mixed with a half teaspoon of dried mint.

  • Oven-broiling alternative.

    If you don't have a grill, line a baking sheet with foil and place a wire rack on top. Arrange the skewers on the rack and broil about 6 inches from the heat source for 6 to 8 minutes per side, watching carefully until beautifully charred.

From Cook Armenian in America.

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