Ma Po Dou Fu

Ma Po Dou Fu

麻婆豆腐·(má pó dòu fu)

便當 (Biàndang) - The Taiwanese Bento Box for School and Office

When Mapo Tofu crossed the strait into Taiwan, home cooks softened it with a tablespoon of Gangshan chili bean paste, trading the numbing hit of peppercorns for a pork gravy glossed with cornstarch slurry and built to drown a bowl of short-grain rice. It is the heavyweight champion of the stainless-steel biàndang box. By blanching the cubes of medium-firm tofu in salted water first and pushing—never stirring—them from the back of a steel wok, the curds stay intact from a Tuesday night stove in Ohio to a Wednesday afternoon office microwave.

Before you start

  • Whisk the cornstarch and cold water together in a small bowl before turning on the stove.

    Have your minced aromatics, measured sauces, and slurry within arm's reach; once the pork is browned, the dish comes together in minutes.

Ingredients

  • medium-firm tofu16 oz
  • kosher salt1/2 tsp
  • neutral oil2 tbsp
  • ground pork1/2 lb
  • garlic3 small cloves
  • fresh ginger1 tsp
  • chili bean sauce2 tbsp
  • chicken broth1 cup
  • soy sauce1 tbsp
  • Taiwanese soy paste1 tbsp
  • Michiu or dry sherry1 tbsp
  • sugar1/2 tsp
  • cornstarch1 1/2 tbsp
  • toasted sesame oil1 tsp
  • scallions2 med
  • ground Sichuan peppercorn1/4 tsp

Method

  1. 01

    Simmer the tofu in salted water for 2 to 3 minutes, then gently drain.

    Bring a medium pot of water to a gentle boil and add the salt before sliding the tofu in. This is the non-negotiable grandma secret: the salted water draws out the raw, grassy soy flavor, seasons the interior, and tightens the surface proteins so the cubes survive the wok and the lunchbox without shattering.

  2. 02

    Heat the oil in a wok over medium-high heat and fry the pork until crispy and deeply browned.

    Break the meat apart with a spatula and let it go for 4 to 5 minutes until all the watery liquid evaporates and the pork fries in its own rendered fat. Boiled gray pork tastes like nothing; browned, caramelized pork is the backbone of the gravy.

  3. 03

    Drop the heat to medium-low, clear a space in the pan, and fry the garlic, ginger, and chili bean sauce until the oil turns bright red.

    Give the garlic and ginger 15 seconds in the fat, then add the bean sauce directly into the oil for 30 to 45 seconds. Frying the paste cooks off its raw fermented edge and releases that aromatic red oil before you stir the pork back in.

  4. 04

    Add the broth, soy sauce, soy paste, rice wine, and sugar, bring to a lively simmer, and slide in the tofu.

    Stop stirring immediately. From here on out, use the rounded back of your spatula or a wooden spoon to gently push the tofu from the edges of the wok toward the center. Simmer for 3 to 5 minutes so the curds drink up the sauce without breaking into mush.

  5. 05

    Lower the heat and push the cornstarch slurry into the simmering sauce in two separate stages.

    Stir the slurry first since the starch settles. Pour half around the edge of the wok, nudging the tofu until the broth turns glossy, then add just enough of the remaining half so the gravy clings heavily to the cubes without clumping.

  6. 06

    Kill the heat, finish with the sesame oil, scallions, and Sichuan peppercorn if using, and give it one final push.

    Serve immediately over hot short-grain rice, or cool slightly to pack into your biandang—the thickened starch matrix holds the red oil and gravy together so it reheats like a dream the next day.

Notes

  • Buy standard supermarket Firm tofu for the lunchbox, not Extra-Firm.

    American 'Firm' tofu matches the texture of Taiwanese medium-firm tofu, holding its shape in transit while staying tender. If you are eating this fresh off the stove and not packing leftovers, use soft or silken tofu.

  • Grab Lee Kum Kee Toban Djan if you cannot find Taiwanese bean paste.

    While Kangshan is the classic Taiwanese brand, the standard Lee Kum Kee chili bean sauce sold in almost every suburban grocery aisle naturally mimics the milder, slightly sweet Taiwanese profile better than salty Sichuan Pixian paste.

  • Fake the Taiwanese soy paste with regular soy sauce and sugar.

    If your market does not carry thick Taiwanese soy paste (jiang you gao), substitute 1 teaspoon of regular soy sauce plus 1/2 teaspoon of sugar.

From Cook Taiwanese in America.

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