Lu Ji Tui
滷雞腿·(lǔ jī tuǐ)
便當 (Biàndang) - The Taiwanese Bento Box for School and Office
If you ever opened a metal lunchbox at noon and caught the scent of star anise, caramelized sugar, and soy, you know the pull of a braised chicken drumstick. It is the undisputed heavyweight champion of the Taiwanese biandang, resting across stir-fried cabbage and rice inside a stainless-steel box. On the back burner, a splash of Kimlan dark soy sauce and two whole star anise pods simmer while the poultry skin tightens, keeping the meat intact through three steps: melting a thumb-sized piece of rock sugar in oil for a ruby-brown lacquer; tossing in a dried salted plum from the snack aisle to cut the rich fat; and turning off the burner early so the drumsticks steep gently to the bone in the cooling master stock. Spoon an extra tablespoon of the dark braising liquid over the rice before you snap the lid shut.
Ingredients
- bone-in skin-on chicken drumsticks6 large
- neutral cooking oil2 tbsp
- rock sugar3 tbsp
- fresh ginger4 slices
- garlic cloves5 med
- scallions2 med
- dried red chili1 small
- Taiwanese Michiu1/4 cup
- soy sauce1/2 cup
- dark soy sauce1 tbsp
- water2 cup
- dried salted plum1 small
- whole star anise2 small
- cassia bark1 small
Method
- 01
Caramelize the sugar in oil over medium-low heat until it turns into a bubbling, ruby-amber syrup.
Heat the oil and rock sugar in a heavy-bottomed pot or Dutch oven, stirring constantly. This technique, chao tang se, gives the chicken its signature lacquered gloss and deep flavor without drowning it in bitter dark soy sauce. Watch it like a hawk; it goes from golden perfection to burnt in seconds.
- 02
Sear the drumsticks in the caramelized sugar until the skin is rich brown, about 2 to 3 minutes per side.
Lay the dry chicken carefully into the hot syrup. Searing tightens the skin so it won't tear during braising and locks the caramel directly onto the surface.
- 03
Push the chicken to the side and fry the ginger, garlic, scallions, and chili in the rendered fat for 1 minute.
Stir the aromatics right in the hot oil until your kitchen smells incredible.
- 04
Deglaze the pot with the rice wine, then add the soy sauces, water, dried plum, star anise, and cassia bark.
Bring the liquid to a rolling boil, scraping up any sticky sugar from the bottom of the pot so it dissolves completely into the broth.
- 05
Cover tightly, reduce heat to low, and simmer gently for 15 to 20 minutes, flipping the drumsticks halfway through.
Keep the bubble gentle; an aggressive boil will shred the skin and toughen the meat.
- 06
Turn off the heat and let the drumsticks steep in the covered pot for at least 30 minutes before serving.
Do not lift the lid. As the braising liquid cools, the meat draws the savory broth deep down to the bone while staying remarkably tender and juicy.
Notes
Don't skip the dried salted plum.
Sold as hua mei (話梅) in the candy and snack aisle of any Asian grocer, this single wrinkled plum is a classic grandmother's secret. It doesn't make the dish taste fruity; its subtle tartness cuts right through the rich chicken fat and wakes up the whole pot.
Stretch the meal with eggs and pressed tofu.
Never let good braising liquid go to waste. Toss peeled hard-boiled eggs and squares of firm pressed tofu (dougan) into the pot during the final 5 minutes of simmering, then let them steep right alongside the chicken.
Using a store-bought spice pouch.
If you have a Taiwanese braising spice pack (lu bao / 滷包) in your pantry, use 1 pouch in place of the star anise and cassia bark.