'Lu'au'
Moa Lūʻau·(mo-ah loo-ow)
Sunday Ohana Suppers
She packs a mountain of greens into a heavy Dutch oven, pours in a can of full-fat coconut milk, and watches the leaves collapse—tender taro leaves patiently stewed until they melt into a rich, dark-green broth. Grandma guarded the secret that raw taro leaves bite back with a fierce throat-scratching itch if not boiled for hours, but modern pressure cookers bypass the wait entirely, yielding a dish that is earthy, rich with coconut milk, and savory with chicken fat—adapted for a regular weeknight in the mainland suburbs. Ladle it heavy over rice, letting the broth soak down.
Before you start
Process the raw taro leaves carefully.
Raw taro leaves contain calcium oxalate crystals that cause severe throat irritation if not properly handled and thoroughly cooked. Wash the leaves thoroughly under cold water, use a paring knife to remove the thick central stems, roll them tightly like a cigar, and slice into 1-inch wide ribbons. If using frozen pre-cooked leaves, simply thaw them and skip this step entirely.
Ingredients
- fresh taro leaves2 lb
- boneless skinless chicken thighs2 lb
- sweet onion1 large
- garlic5 med clove
- fresh ginger1 med knob
- neutral cooking oil2 tbsp
- Hawaiian sea salt2 tsp
- low-sodium chicken broth1 cup
- full-fat coconut milk13 1/2 oz
- onion powder1/2 tsp
- garlic powder1/2 tsp
Method
- 01
Brown the chicken to build a savory foundation.
Set an electric pressure cooker to the sauté function (or use a heavy Dutch oven over medium-high heat) and add the oil. Add the cubed chicken, season with 1 teaspoon of the Hawaiian salt, and sear for 6 to 8 minutes until deeply browned on all sides. Remove the chicken to a plate, leaving the rendered fat behind in the pot.
- 02
Sauté the aromatics in the rendered fat.
Lower the heat to medium. Add the diced sweet onion, minced garlic, and ginger to the chicken fat. Cook for 3 to 4 minutes until the onion is soft, translucent, and highly fragrant.
- 03
Simmer the chicken and taro leaves under pressure.
Return the chicken to the pot and pour in the chicken broth, scraping up any browned bits from the bottom. Pack the raw ribbons of taro leaf directly on top of the liquid and meat. Seal the lid and pressure cook on high for 25 minutes, then allow a 10-minute natural pressure release. This intense pressurized heat rapidly breaks down the tough plant fibers and safely neutralizes the calcium oxalate.
- 04
Finish gently with coconut milk.
Open the pot and reduce the heat to the lowest setting. The taro leaves should be completely melted and soft. Gently stir in the full-fat coconut milk, the remaining 1 teaspoon of Hawaiian salt, the garlic powder, and the onion powder. Simmer for 5 to 10 minutes to thicken the broth slightly, being very careful not to let it come to a hard boil, which will curdle the coconut milk. Serve piping hot over sticky white rice.
Notes
The Stovetop Method.
If you do not have a pressure cooker, use a heavy Dutch oven. Add the raw leaves to the broth and chicken, cover tightly, and simmer on low for 1 1/2 to 2 hours. Check every 20 minutes, adding a splash of water if it looks dry. Taste a tiny bite of the leaf; if it feels at all scratchy or itchy in your throat, it simply needs more time to cook.
Sourcing Taro Leaves.
Look for fresh leaves at Asian grocers, or check Indian markets where they are frequently sold as 'patta'. Frozen, pre-cooked luau leaves from Pacific Islander specialty shops work perfectly and bypass the need for a pressure cooker entirely.
The Supermarket Pinch.
If you absolutely cannot find taro leaves, substitute 1 pound of frozen whole-leaf spinach and 1 pound of chopped fresh collard greens. Skip the pressure cooking phase and simply simmer the greens with the broth and chicken in a regular pot for 20 to 30 minutes until tender.
From Cook Hawaiian in America.