Local Simmered Kabocha
かぼちゃの煮物·(ka-bo-cha no ni-mo-no)
Hanabatta Days: Small Kid Time Comforts
A covered saucepan on the back burner. If you walked into any neighborhood okazuya in Hawaii, you knew the metal trays piled high with glistening cubes of kabocha. Adapted to the islands, it leans on chicken broth and Aloha shoyu to feed plantation laborers. It is entirely about technique. You don't stir it, you use a makeshift drop-lid to bathe the pumpkin in flavor, and most importantly, you let it cool in its own juices. Honor that resting period: leave the lid on, let the dark green skin soften, and watch the half-inch wedges absorb the broth into a glaze.
Before you start
Soften the rind before cutting.
Kabocha skin is completely edible and necessary for holding the chunks together, but cutting it raw is a workout. Microwave the whole or halved squash for two to three minutes to slightly steam the tough outer rind, allowing your chef's knife to glide through safely without cooking the flesh.
Ingredients
- kabocha squash1 1/2 lb
- low-sodium chicken broth1 cup
- granulated sugar3 tbsp
- mirin2 tbsp
- soy sauce2 1/2 tbsp
Method
- 01
Arrange the squash in a single layer.
Place the kabocha pieces skin-side down in a wide, heavy-bottomed pot. Do not stack them; stacking causes the starchy edges to smash and dissolve into a muddy puree as the liquid boils.
- 02
Build the simmering broth.
Pour the chicken broth, sugar, mirin, and soy sauce directly over the squash. The liquid should reach roughly halfway up the sides of the pieces.
- 03
Apply a makeshift drop-lid and simmer.
Bring the liquid to a lively boil over medium-high heat. Cut a circle of parchment paper or aluminum foil the size of your pot and place it directly on top of the squash. This traditional technique forces the boiling liquid to cascade over the exposed tops, cooking them evenly without any mechanical agitation. Reduce the heat to medium-low and gently simmer for 12 to 15 minutes, until fork-tender.
- 04
Kill the heat and let it rest.
Turn off the stove entirely but leave the drop-lid in place. Let the pot sit undisturbed for at least 30 minutes. As the temperature drops, osmotic pressure reverses, turning the squash into a sponge that sucks the sweet, salty broth deep into its core.
Notes
The Local Pork Upgrade
To turn this side dish into a main course affectionately known as Pork and Squash, brown 1/2 pound of thinly sliced pork belly or boneless pork chops in the pot before adding the squash and liquids.
Soy Sauce Adjustments
If you are lucky enough to have sweeter Aloha Shoyu on hand, use a full 3 tablespoons. If using standard mainland soy sauce like Kikkoman, stick to 2 1/2 tablespoons to avoid over-salting.
From Cook Hawaiian in America.