Le Cake Salé aux Olives et Lardons (The Savory Apéro Loaf)
(kek sa-lay oh zoh-leev a lahr-dohn)
L'Apéro et Les Petites Célébrations: Gatherings and Rituals
If you walk into any apartment in France on a Friday evening, chances are you'll be handed a glass of wine and a thick slice of Cake Salé. This unpretentious savory quick-bread is the undisputed backbone of the apero dinatoire, that casual, hours-long cocktail party that replaces a formal dinner. Getting the texture right in an American kitchen doesn't require importing specialty flours; it just requires respecting a few grandmotherly secrets. You warm the milk to tenderize the dough, use oil instead of butter to keep the crumb moist for days, and toss the heavy meats and olives in flour so they don't sink to the bottom of the pan. It is deeply comforting, incredibly forgiving, and exactly what you want to feed your friends on a busy weeknight.
Before you start
Preheat the oven and prepare the pan.
Preheat your oven to 350°F. Lightly grease an 8x4-inch metal loaf pan with oil and line the bottom with a strip of parchment paper.
Ingredients
- thick-cut bacon6 oz
- jarred pitted green olives3/4 cup
- all-purpose flour1 tbsp
- all-purpose flour1 1/4 cup
- baking powder1 tbsp
- black pepper1/4 tsp
- eggs3 large
- whole milk1/2 cup
- neutral oil3 tbsp
- extra-virgin olive oil3 tbsp
- Gruyere cheese1 cup
Method
- 01
Render the bacon until golden.
Place a skillet over medium heat and gently fry the bacon matchsticks for about 5 minutes until the fat renders and the edges are golden, but not shatteringly crisp.
- 02
Drain the bacon and dust the inclusions.
Transfer the bacon to a paper towel-lined plate to drain completely, then toss the cooled meat and dried olives in a small bowl with one tablespoon of flour to prevent them from sinking to the bottom of the batter.
- 03
Warm the milk.
Heat the milk in a microwave-safe glass for 20 to 30 seconds until it is just warm to the touch, which helps relax the gluten and emulsify the batter.
- 04
Whisk the dry ingredients.
In a large mixing bowl, whisk together the one and a quarter cups of flour, baking powder, and black pepper.
- 05
Emulsify the batter.
Make a well in the center of the dry mix, crack in the eggs, and gently whisk them while slowly pouring in the oils and the warm milk just until smooth.
- 06
Fold in the savory ingredients.
Using a rubber spatula, gently fold in the grated cheese followed by the flour-dusted bacon and olives, then scrape the mixture into your prepared pan.
- 07
Bake the loaf and score the crust.
Place the pan in the oven, and after exactly 10 minutes, quickly open the door to run a lightly buttered knife down the center of the crust, then bake for another 35 minutes.
- 08
Cool completely before slicing.
Let the loaf cool in the pan for 10 minutes before turning it out onto a wire rack to reach room temperature, preventing the delicate crumb from crumbling when cut.
Notes
Do not substitute butter for the oil.
Butter solidifies at room temperature, which will turn this delicate, moist loaf into a dense brick once it cools. The oil is a non-negotiable grandmotherly secret for a tender crumb.
Skip the added salt.
Between the cured bacon, the alpine cheese, and the olives, there is more than enough ambient sodium to season the entire loaf.