Lao Shao Ping An

Lao Shao Ping An

老少平安·(lou-siu-ping-on)

San Cai Yi Tang: The Weeknight Blueprint

A block of silken tofu, a shallow ceramic bowl, and fifteen minutes in a bamboo steamer yield a completely boneless, spoonably soft texture that won't choke a toddler or trouble a grandparent. While traditional cooks painstakingly scraped meat from bony dace fish, this weeknight staple is simpler. Grab a tub of pre-seasoned white fish paste from the freezer aisle of your local Asian market, skip the raw ginger which only highlights the muddy notes of freshwater fish, and rely on minced aged tangerine peel to give you the exact, undisputed taste of a Pearl River Delta kitchen. Spoon over rice.

Before you start

  • Drain the tofu.

    Place the block of soft tofu on a plate lined with paper towels and let it sit for 5 minutes to extract excess water.

  • Rehydrate the tangerine peel.

    Soak the dried tangerine peel in warm water until pliable, then use a paring knife to gently scrape away the bitter white pith before mincing.

Ingredients

  • soft tofu14 oz
  • pre-packaged minced fish paste1/2 lb
  • egg white1 large
  • dried tangerine peel1 small
  • cornstarch1 tsp
  • white pepper1/2 tsp
  • toasted sesame oil1 tsp
  • salt1/4 tsp
  • scallion1 med
  • neutral cooking oil1 tbsp
  • steamed fish soy sauce1 1/2 tbsp

Method

  1. 01

    Whip the fish paste with the aromatics.

    In a large bowl, combine the fish paste, minced tangerine peel, egg white, cornstarch, white pepper, sesame oil, and salt, stirring vigorously in one direction for a minute until sticky and glossy.

  2. 02

    Fold in the drained tofu.

    Using your hands or a fork, gently crush the tofu into the fish paste, leaving rustic, uneven lumps rather than a perfectly smooth puree.

  3. 03

    Spread the mixture onto a steaming plate.

    Transfer the paste to a shallow, heat-proof dish with a slight lip, spreading it into an even layer about an inch thick.

  4. 04

    Steam over a rolling boil.

    Place the dish into a steamer basket over rapidly boiling water, cover tightly, and steam over high heat for 8 to 10 minutes until the center is firm and springs back slightly.

  5. 05

    Awaken the aromatics with smoking hot oil.

    Carefully remove the hot plate from the steamer, scatter the chopped scallion generously over the top, and pour smoking hot neutral oil directly over the greens to create a sizzling emulsion before finishing with the soy sauce.

Notes

  • Respect the ginger prohibition.

    Resist the urge to add raw minced ginger to the fish paste; traditional cooks know it paradoxically brings out the muddy flavors of freshwater fish, relying entirely on the tangerine peel and white pepper for deodorizing.

  • Adjust for pre-seasoned paste.

    If your commercial fish paste is already heavily seasoned straight out of the tub, simply omit the quarter teaspoon of salt from the mixture.

From Cook Cantonese in America.

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