Khoresh-e Aloo Esfenaj
خورش آلو اسفناج·(kho-resh-e ah-loo es-fe-naj)
Jomeh: The Friday Simmer
Tuesday at 6 p.m., the five-quart Dutch oven hits the burner and a mountain of spinach collapses into the broth. Golden plums deliver the Persian concept of mallas—that high-wire act between sweet and sour—but to pull it off tonight, cut the lamb a little smaller and toss it in toasted flour for a velvety texture. Crack the lid and let the stew earn its keep.
Before you start
Source the right spinach.
American baby spinach is too delicate and will dissolve into mush. You must buy mature, flat-leaf or curly bunch spinach. If you must use frozen, use one pound of frozen chopped spinach, thawed and squeezed entirely dry.
Plump the fruit.
Always soak your dried plums in warm water for at least 20 minutes before using them. This plumps the fruit and washes away any residual sand from the drying process.
Ingredients
- neutral oil3 tbsp
- yellow onion1 large
- lamb stew meat1 lb
- garlic3 small clove
- ground turmeric1 tsp
- black pepper1/2 tsp
- all-purpose flour1 tbsp
- boiling water2 cup
- mature flat-leaf spinach1 1/2 lb
- Aloo Bokhara or pitted prunes1 cup
- fresh lemon juice2 tbsp
- liquid saffron1 tbsp
- salt1 tsp
Method
- 01
Caramelize the onions and sear the meat.
In a heavy-bottomed pot over medium heat, warm two tablespoons of the oil and sauté the onion patiently until deeply golden. Add the cubed meat, searing until browned on all sides, then stir in the garlic, turmeric, and black pepper to bloom for one minute.
- 02
Build the braise using the flour trick.
Sprinkle the flour over the meat and onions, stirring constantly for a minute to cook off the raw taste. Pour in the boiling water, scrape up any browned bits from the bottom, cover, and simmer on low for 60 to 75 minutes until the meat is fork-tender.
- 03
Sauté the spinach separately.
While the meat simmers, heat the remaining tablespoon of oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Sauté the chopped spinach until it wilts and its water evaporates, but pull it from the heat before it turns dark and dry to avoid bitterness.
- 04
Assemble and let the stew settle.
When the meat is tender, gently fold in the sautéed spinach, soaked plums, lemon juice, saffron, and salt. Partially cover the pot and keep the heat on low for a final 20 to 30 minutes, a crucial phase called ja-oftadan where the flavors marry and the oil rises.
- 05
Balance and serve.
Taste the broth for the perfect savory, sweet, and sour finish, adjusting with a splash more lemon juice or salt if necessary. Serve hot in a deep bowl alongside a platter of steaming saffron rice.
Notes
The Gilani upgrade.
In the northern Caspian region of Iran, home cooks often add a tablespoon of pomegranate molasses and a handful of toasted, ground walnuts during the final 30 minutes of cooking for a darker, tangier stew.
Compensating for American prunes.
If you cannot find Persian Aloo Bokhara at a Middle Eastern market and use standard California prunes instead, add an extra tablespoon of lemon juice to mimic the missing native tartness.
From Cook Persian in America.