Kallamar Zgare
(kah-lah-MAHR ZGAH-reh)
Zgara: The Backyard Besa
When their parents first settled in Ohio, the backyard grill wasn't just for hot dogs—it was a portal back to the Ionian Sea. The secret to recreating those humid nights in Vlorë isn't a complex restaurant trick; it’s what any Albanian grandmother will tell you over the coals. Buy the frozen squid, dry it aggressively, blister it on a dangerously hot grill for no more than three minutes, and never add the lemon until it’s off the fire. It is fast, unapologetic, and perfectly tender.
Before you start
Dry the squid aggressively.
Moisture is the enemy of the grill. Lay the thawed squid on paper towels and pat them completely dry inside and out so they sear rather than steam.
Fire up the grill.
Preheat an outdoor charcoal grill or an indoor cast-iron grill pan until it is blisteringly hot.
Ingredients
- squid tubes and tentacles1 1/2 lb
- extra virgin olive oil1 tbsp
- garlic1 small clove
- sea salt1/2 tsp
- black pepper1/4 tsp
- premium extra virgin olive oil1/4 cup
- lemon1 large
- flat-leaf parsley2 tbsp
- dried Greek oregano1 tsp
- garlic1 small clove
- flaky sea salt1 pinch
Method
- 01
Toss the squid for the grill.
In a medium bowl, combine the dried squid, one tablespoon of olive oil, the smashed garlic clove, sea salt, and black pepper. Do not add any lemon juice at this stage.
- 02
Flash grill the tubes.
Place the tubes on the screaming hot grill, pressing them flat with tongs if they curl. Let them blister for exactly two minutes until you see dark char marks, then flip and cook for one to two minutes more until opaque.
- 03
Char the tentacles.
Toss the tentacles onto the grill during the final two minutes. They cook incredibly fast and are done the second they curl up with crispy edges. Move all the squid to a cutting board immediately.
- 04
Slice and dress while hot.
Slice the tubes horizontally into thick, one-inch rings. Transfer them immediately to a serving bowl along with the tentacles, the premium olive oil, lemon juice, lemon zest, parsley, oregano, and minced garlic. Toss well.
- 05
Serve immediately.
Bring the bowl straight to the table with crusty bread to soak up the glorious emulsification of hot olive oil, garlic, and bright citrus pooling at the bottom.
Notes
The frozen shortcut is deeply authentic.
Do not stress about finding fresh coastal catch. Freezing mechanically breaks down the dense muscle fibers of the squid, acting as a perfect tenderizer for the home cook.
Save the acid for the end.
Marinating raw squid in lemon juice chemically denatures the proteins, resulting in a rubbery chew once it hits high heat. The lemon goes on at the very end to flavor, not to cook.
From Cook Albanian in America.