Kıymalı Ispanak

Before you start

• Wash the spinach vigorously to remove the sand.

  Traditional Turkish spinach is gritty. Submerge the chopped leaves and stems in a large basin of cold water with a splash of white vinegar. Let it sit for five minutes so the grit falls to the bottom, then carefully lift the greens out with your hands and rinse again under cold water.

Ingredients

• mature bunched spinach2 lb
• olive oil3 tbsp
• ground beef8 oz
• yellow onion1 large
• garlic cloves3 med
• double-concentrated tomato paste1 1/2 tbsp
• Turkish red pepper paste1/2 tbsp
• short-grain white rice3 tbsp
• kosher salt1 tsp
• black pepper1/2 tsp
• Aleppo pepper1 tsp
• granulated sugar1/2 tsp
• hot water1 1/2 cup
• whole milk plain yogurt1 cup

Method

1. 01

   Build the savory foundation.

   Heat the olive oil in a large Dutch oven or heavy-bottomed pot over medium heat. Add the diced onion and sauté until soft and translucent, about five to seven minutes.

2. 02

   Brown the meat in its own fat.

   Add the ground beef, breaking it apart with a wooden spoon. Cook until it releases its juices, the liquid evaporates, and the meat begins to brown. Stir in the minced garlic and cook for one more minute until fragrant.

3. 03

   Fry the paste to remove its raw edge.

   Add the tomato and pepper pastes directly into the hot oil and beef fat. Stir continuously and let the paste fry for about two minutes until it darkens and smells rich—this technique is the absolute backbone of a proper Turkish stew.

4. 04

   Wilt the spinach in batches.

   Add the chopped spinach stems first and sauté for two minutes to give them a head start. Begin adding the leaves in large handfuls. Cover the pot with a lid for sixty seconds to let the steam wilt the leaves, stir, and repeat until all the spinach fits in the pot.

5. 05

   Simmer and hydrate.

   Once the spinach has released its dark juices, sprinkle the rinsed rice evenly over the top. Add the salt, black pepper, Aleppo pepper, and the pinch of sugar to balance the bitterness. Pour in just the hot water; it will look like it needs more liquid, but the spinach is mostly water and will provide plenty.

6. 06

   Cook low and slow.

   Cover the pot tightly with a lid, reduce the heat to medium-low, and simmer gently for twenty to twenty-five minutes. The dish is done when the rice is puffed and tender, and the liquid has reduced to a rich, spoonable sauce.

7. 07

   Rest and serve.

   Turn off the heat and let the pot sit, covered, for five to ten minutes. This allows the starch from the rice to settle and thicken the broth beautifully. Serve in shallow bowls, topped with a generous spoonful of garlic yogurt and crusty bread on the side.

Notes

• Sourcing the right spinach is critical.

  Step away from the plastic tubs of baby spinach. To get the true texture of this dish, buy large bunches of mature spinach, usually found tied with wire or rubber bands in the produce section. The thick stems aren't trash—they provide a necessary crunch that contrasts with the wilted leaves.

• Try the grandmother's bulgur swap.

  While rice is the modern standard, many grandmothers swear by substituting it with an equal amount of coarse bulgur. It absorbs the tomato broth like a sponge without turning mushy, yielding a rustic, nutty flavor that holds up brilliantly as leftovers the next day.