Kısır
Kısır·(kuh-suhr)
Çay Saati (Afternoon Gatherings & Golden Hour Carbs)
Four in the afternoon on a Sunday, the tea is steeping in tulip-shaped tea glasses, neighbors crowd the table, and a wide bowl of kısır instantly yanks a first-generation Turkish-American straight out of an Ohio suburb and drops them back into their mother's kitchen. Far from the bland, soggy tabbouleh languishing in generic supermarket delis, real Turkish kısır is vibrant, deeply savory, and practically glows crimson from an essential mix of tomato and pepper pastes. Your grandmother knew never to drown the fine bulgur. Let it steam gently until the bulgur swells, then coat every single kernel in hot olive oil bloomed with onions and tart pomegranate molasses. The parsley gets chopped, the crisp lettuce cups are filled, and the afternoon slips away.
Before you start
Dry your herbs meticulously.
When incorporating the massive volume of fresh greens, they must be bone-dry. Wash your parsley, mint, and scallions well ahead of time and dry them completely to prevent introducing unwanted moisture into the salad.
Ingredients
- fine bulgur2 cup
- hot boiling water1 3/4 cup
- extra virgin olive oil1/2 cup
- yellow onion1 large
- Turkish red pepper paste2 tbsp
- tomato paste1 1/2 tbsp
- pomegranate molasses1/4 cup
- lemon1 large
- ground cumin1 1/2 tsp
- Aleppo pepper1 tsp
- fine sea salt1 tsp
- black pepper1/2 tsp
- flat-leaf parsley1 large bunch
- fresh mint leaves1/2 bunch
- scallions6 med
- romaine lettuce1 med head
Method
- 01
Steam the fine bulgur gently.
Place the bulgur in a large, wide mixing bowl with a tight-fitting lid. Pour the freshly boiled water evenly over the grains without stirring excessively. Immediately cover the bowl and let it sit undisturbed for 15 minutes until the grains absorb the water and swell.
- 02
Bloom the savory paste.
While the bulgur steams, heat a quarter cup of the olive oil in a skillet over medium heat. Sauté the finely diced yellow onion for 5 to 7 minutes until translucent, then add the tomato and pepper pastes. Cook for 2 to 3 minutes, stirring constantly, until the oil turns a deep crimson and the tinny, raw smell cooks off.
- 03
Marry the grains and the hot base.
Fluff the rested bulgur with a fork. Scrape the hot onion and paste mixture directly into the bowl. Using a wooden spoon, gently rub and mix the paste into the grains until every single piece of bulgur is uniformly red and no white spots remain.
- 04
Add the tang and spice.
Pour the remaining quarter cup of olive oil, pomegranate molasses, lemon juice, cumin, Aleppo pepper, salt, and black pepper into the red bulgur. Mix thoroughly until the flavor profile hits you with deep savoriness and sharp tang, then let the mixture cool completely to room temperature.
- 05
Fold in the fresh greens.
Ensure the bulgur is no longer hot, or it will wilt and bruise the herbs. Gently fold in the bone-dry, finely chopped parsley, mint, and scallions with a spoon so they retain their bright green crunch.
- 06
Serve the traditional way.
Arrange crisp romaine lettuce leaves on a platter. Spoon the kısır directly into the center, inviting guests to scoop the vibrant salad into individual lettuce cups.
Notes
Never use coarse bulgur.
Standard coarse bulgur will ruin the dish, resulting in hard pebbles. Look specifically for fine bulgur (size #1) in the Middle Eastern aisle to ensure the delicate, fluffy texture crucial to real kısır.
Respect the tomato rule.
You'll notice there are no fresh tomatoes in this recipe. Traditionalists warn that tomatoes release enzymatic water as they sit, turning the beautifully separate grains into a soggy, wet porridge.
Sourcing the pepper paste.
Biber salçası is the soul of this dish. If you absolutely cannot find it, substitute an extra tablespoon of tomato paste mixed with a tablespoon of roasted red pepper puree and a pinch of paprika.
From Cook Turkish in America.