Jyu Geng Yuk Char Siu
豬頸肉叉燒·(jyu geng yuk char siu)
The Chinatown Deli Window
Mash Lee Kum Kee hoisin and nam yu for an earthy, complex umami and rose essence wine for an intoxicating aroma that cuts right through the rich meat, then drop the pork straight onto a wire rack to channel the heavy cleaver's thwack and the glow of the Chinatown deli window—with its ruby-red meats dripping under heat lamps. Using pork jowl, a prized cut Chinese butchers call 'Golden Six Taels,' delivers a highly marbled, beautifully bouncy texture that cooks fast enough for a Tuesday night. Pull the pan when the sugar blisters, slice the pork thick, and get it over hot rice.
Before you start
Soften the maltose before measuring.
Maltose behaves like hard resin at room temperature; microwave the open jar for 10 seconds or set it in a bowl of hot water before attempting to scoop it.
Ingredients
- pork jowl1 1/2 lb
- nam yu (red fermented bean curd)1 1/2 cube
- nam yu brine1 tbsp
- hoisin sauce2 tbsp
- light soy sauce1 tbsp
- dark soy sauce1 tbsp
- brown sugar2 tbsp
- Mei Kuei Lu Chiew (rose essence wine)1 tbsp
- five-spice powder1/2 tsp
- sesame oil1 tsp
- garlic2 small clove
- maltose3 tbsp
- hot water1 tbsp
Method
- 01
Mix the master marinade.
In a large bowl, whisk together the mashed nam yu, brine, hoisin, light and dark soy sauces, sugar, rose wine, five-spice, sesame oil, and garlic until completely combined.
- 02
Marinate the pork jowls.
Add the dried pork to the bowl, massage the marinade deeply into the meat, and let it sit at room temperature for 30 to 60 minutes.
- 03
Prepare the oven and glazing station.
Preheat the oven to 425°F, line a heavy baking sheet with aluminum foil, pour 1/4 cup of water directly onto the foil to prevent smoking, and set a wire roasting rack on top.
- 04
Roast the pork.
Remove the pork from the marinade—letting the excess drip off and reserving what remains—then lay the jowls flat on the wire rack and roast in the center of the oven for 12 minutes.
- 05
Mix the deli-window glaze.
While the pork roasts, loosen the maltose with the hot water in a small bowl and stir in 1 tablespoon of the reserved marinade.
- 06
Glaze and flip the meat.
Remove the pan from the oven, flip the jowls with tongs, generously brush all sides with the maltose glaze, and return to the oven for another 5 to 7 minutes.
- 07
Broil for the signature char.
Brush the pork with a final thick layer of glaze, then turn the broiler to high and broil for 1 to 2 minutes, watching it like a hawk until the edges blacken and caramelize.
- 08
Rest and slice against the grain.
Transfer the meat to a cutting board and let it rest for 10 minutes so the boiling sugars lacquer and the juices settle, then slice on a slight bias and serve immediately.
Notes
Source the right cut of pork.
While most Asian markets reliably stock pork jowl, you can also ask a standard local butcher for 'pork cheeks,' ensuring they are trimmed of heavy skin but still retain their intramuscular fat.
Do not over-marinate the jowls.
Because this cut is thin and highly marbled, leaving it in the marinade overnight will cause the salt to cure the meat, entirely ruining its signature bouncy snap.
Skip the artificial food coloring.
The vibrant, elegant mahogany-red of this dish comes naturally from the red yeast rice in the nam yu; leave the neon red dyes to the cheap takeout joints.