Iri Dofu
炒り豆腐·(i-ri do-fu)
Weeknight Okazu: The Savory Sides
Iri Dofu is the unsung hero of the Japanese family dinner table—a deeply savory, resourceful dish designed to make a bowl of plain white rice taste like a revelation. It is entirely distinct from the earnest, rubbery vegan breakfast scrambles of the West. This is the unvarnished reality of a grandmother's weeknight kitchen, built on thrift and the profound umami of dried shiitake mushrooms. The secret lies not in fancy knife work, but in violently tearing the tofu by hand so the jagged edges can catch the rich, dark sauce. It is pure, unpretentious comfort.
Before you start
Rehydrate the shiitake mushrooms.
Place the dried shiitake mushrooms in a small bowl with the warm water and let them soften for at least 30 minutes. Gently squeeze them out, reserving the dark soaking liquid for the sauce. Snip off the tough stems and slice the caps as thinly as possible.
Ingredients
- extra firm tofu14 oz
- dried shiitake mushrooms2 med
- warm water1 cup
- carrot1/2 med
- scallions2 med
- ground chicken4 oz
- toasted sesame oil1 tbsp
- soy sauce1 1/2 tbsp
- mirin1 tbsp
- sake1 tbsp
- granulated sugar2 tsp
- kosher salt1/4 tsp
- black pepper1/4 tsp
- egg1 large
Method
- 01
Boil the hand-torn tofu.
Bring a medium pot of water to a boil with a generous pinch of salt. Ditch the knife and use your hands to tear the tofu block into rustic, walnut-sized chunks so the uneven edges can catch the sauce. Drop the torn tofu into the boiling water for exactly two minutes to force out excess internal moisture and firm the curds, then drain in a fine-mesh sieve.
- 02
Mix the canonical sauce.
In a small bowl, combine the soy sauce, mirin, sake, sugar, and two to three tablespoons of the dark, earthy liquid reserved from soaking the shiitake mushrooms.
- 03
Build the savory base.
Heat the toasted sesame oil in a large skillet or wok over medium-high heat. Add the ground chicken with a pinch of salt and pepper, stirring until the meat loses its pink color. Toss in the matchstick carrots, sliced shiitake caps, and the white parts of the scallions, sautéing for about two minutes until the carrots begin to soften.
- 04
Parch the tofu.
Add the drained, hand-torn tofu to the skillet, gently breaking down any overly large chunks with a wooden spatula. Pour the sauce mixture over everything, reduce the heat to medium-low, and simmer patiently. Exercise restraint and let the mixture cook for three to five minutes until the pan is nearly dry and the tofu has completely absorbed the dark liquid.
- 05
Finish with a fluffy egg.
Pour the beaten egg evenly over the top of the tofu mixture and stop touching it. Let the egg sit undisturbed for five to ten seconds until it just begins to set at the edges, then gently fold the mixture from the bottom up to create beautiful, distinct ribbons of egg. Turn off the heat immediately, fold in the scallion greens, and serve hot over rice or save it for tomorrow's bento box.
Notes
The pantry protein swap.
Historically, Japanese grandmothers were masters of utilizing odds and ends. If fresh chicken isn't available, substitute a drained can of tuna for a rich, oceanic umami that pairs beautifully with the soy and mirin.
A flawless vegan adaptation.
Because the dish originated in Buddhist temple cuisine, omitting the meat and egg is historically accurate. To compensate, increase the toasted sesame oil slightly and lean heavily on the umami of the shiitake mushrooms.
From Cook Japanese in America.