Il Sugo Rapido
Sciuè Sciuè·(eel SOO-go RAH-pee-doh)
L'Arte della Conserva: The Late August Tomato Ritual
Smash three garlic cloves into a 12-inch stainless skillet over medium heat, and when the garlic hisses, use the time it takes a pot of water to boil to crush in a 28-ounce can of peeled tomatoes. You have exactly twenty minutes to turn this into dinner, relying on just hot olive oil caramelizing the natural sugars of a sweet tomato, stopping exactly when the liquid reduces and the oil separates. There’s no butter, no onions, and absolutely no dried herbs. Pull the noodles early and finish them directly in the sauce.
Before you start
Prepare the tomatoes according to the season.
Wash and halve fresh cherry or grape tomatoes. If using winter pantry substitutions, drain a 28-ounce can of whole peeled San Marzano tomatoes and thoroughly crush the firm flesh by hand.
Ingredients
- fresh cherry or grape tomatoes1 lb
- extra virgin olive oil4 tbsp
- garlic2 med cloves
- kosher salt1/2 tsp
- red pepper flakes1 pinch
- dried pasta1 lb
- fresh sweet basil1 large bunch
Method
- 01
Flavor the oil.
Heat the olive oil in a wide skillet over medium heat, then add the smashed garlic and red pepper flakes. Let them sizzle until the garlic turns a pale, golden blond. Remove and discard the garlic; it has already done its job of perfuming the oil.
- 02
Caramelize the tomatoes.
Crank the heat to medium-high and carefully drop the tomatoes and salt into the hot oil. Let them cook aggressively for 5 to 8 minutes, allowing the vegetative water to evaporate quickly and leaving behind a dense, sweet, oil-rich sauce.
- 03
Boil the pasta.
While the sauce reduces, cook the pasta in heavily salted boiling water until it is two minutes shy of al dente. Before draining, reserve a mug full of the starchy pasta water.
- 04
Execute the mantecatura.
Transfer the undercooked pasta directly into the bubbling skillet along with a splash of the reserved pasta water. Toss vigorously over medium-high heat for a minute or two until the starch emulsifies with the oil into a velvety cream that clings to the noodles.
- 05
Finish off the heat.
Kill the heat entirely. Toss in the hand-torn basil immediately before serving to preserve its delicate volatile oils, passing grated cheese at the table if desired.
Notes
Embrace the winter compromise.
American supermarket tomatoes in January are mealy and bred for transport. When summer ends, bypass the produce aisle entirely and use certified canned San Marzano whole peeled tomatoes.
Leave the sugar in the pantry.
If you cook high-quality tomatoes aggressively over high heat, their natural water evaporates and concentrates the fructose. Added sugar is a crutch you simply do not need.
Use a wide skillet.
Use a wide 12-inch pan rather than a deep saucepan. A broad surface area ensures the rapid evaporation of the tomato water so they caramelize rather than steam.
From Cook Italian in America.