Huevos Encamisados
Desayunos Fuertes: Weekend Mornings at Home
Press the dough flat, drop it onto the heat, and watch for the masa blisters. In the rural heartlands of the Yucatán, the women of the milpa begin with a fresh corn tortilla that puffs up on a hot cast-iron comal, split open just enough to sneak a raw egg inside, and cooked until perfectly steamed within its masa jacket. Tear the hot pocket open so the rich yolk can spill out and mingle with a smoky, fiery chiltomate and a spoonful of habanero salsa.
Ingredients
- Roma tomatoes4 large
- habanero peppers2 med
- white onion1/4 med
- garlic2 med cloves
- kosher salt1 1/2 tsp
- ground allspice1/4 tsp
- masa harina1 1/2 cup
- warm water1 1/4 cup
- eggs4 large
- neutral oil or lard1 tbsp
- refried black beans1 cup
- queso fresco1/4 cup
Method
- 01
Char the vegetables for the chiltomate on a dry skillet.
Heat a cast-iron skillet or comal over medium-high heat. Place the tomatoes, habaneros, onion, and unpeeled garlic directly on the dry pan, turning occasionally until deeply blistered and blackened in spots, about 10 to 15 minutes. Remove the garlic early once it is soft.
- 02
Blend the chiltomate into a thick, chunky salsa.
Peel the garlic and place it in a blender with the roasted vegetables, 1 teaspoon of the salt, and the allspice. Pulse three or four times until thick and chunky—never puree it into a smooth liquid.
- 03
Hydrate the masa with warm water.
In a bowl, mix the masa harina and the remaining 1/2 teaspoon of salt, then stream in the warm water while kneading. Knead for about two minutes until the dough feels like soft, tacky clay, adding a few drops of water if it cracks.
- 04
Press the dough into slightly thick tortillas.
Divide the masa into four golf-ball-sized spheres. Using a plastic-lined tortilla press, flatten each ball to about 1/8-inch thick, leaving them slightly thicker than a standard taco so the walls can support the egg.
- 05
Cook and puff the tortillas on a hot skillet.
Place a tortilla on the medium-heated skillet for 45 to 60 seconds until the edges easily lift, then flip and cook for another minute until light brown freckles appear. Flip a third time and press gently in the center to trap steam and force the tortilla to puff up like a balloon.
- 06
Slice a pocket in the puffed tortilla and insert the egg.
Crack an egg into a small espresso cup or ramekin first. Slice a 2-inch opening along the edge of the puffed tortilla with a paring knife, slide the raw egg inside, and seal the pocket shut by pressing a pea-sized piece of raw masa along the seam.
- 07
Cook the egg inside the tortilla to your desired doneness.
Lightly grease the skillet with a touch of oil or lard, then cook the stuffed tortilla for about two minutes on the first side and one to two minutes on the second side for a beautifully runny yolk.
- 08
Serve immediately over warm refried beans.
Spoon a base of warm black beans onto a plate, lay the encamisado on top, and smother generously with the warm chiltomate and a sprinkle of queso fresco.
Notes
Use a ramekin to pour the egg.
Never crack the egg directly from the shell into the hot tortilla. Using a small cup gives you control and prevents a mess on the skillet.
Leave the char on the vegetables.
The blackened skins provide the signature smoky flavor of rural Yucatecan cooking. You can peel the thickest tomato skins if preferred, but keep the rest.