Hovmästarsås över Köpt Gravlax
(hov-MEH-star-sohs)
Mormors Arv (Heritage, Midsummer, and Julbord)
Keep simple things simple. You don't need to bury a salmon in the backyard for three days to taste a real Swedish holiday. Buy good gravlax from the deli and focus your energy on the sauce. The secret to a proper hovmästarsås—passed down from the legendary chef Tore Wretman—is mashing the fresh dill into the sugar before doing anything else. It rips the essential oils right out of the herb, turning the sugar pale green and delivering a depth of flavor that a lazy stir simply can't touch.
Before you start
Bring your cold ingredients to room temperature.
Taking the mustards out of the fridge thirty minutes before you start ensures the sauce won't split while mixing.
Ingredients
- fresh dill1/2 cup
- granulated sugar2 tbsp
- sweet mustard2 tbsp
- Dijon mustard1 tbsp
- white wine vinegar1 1/2 tbsp
- salt1 pinch
- white pepper1 pinch
- canola oil3/4 cup
- store-bought gravlax8 oz
Method
- 01
Muddle the dill and sugar to extract the essential oils.
In a medium mixing bowl, aggressively mash the chopped dill and sugar together with the back of a spoon for about a minute until the sugar takes on a green hue. Let it sit for two minutes to maximize extraction.
- 02
Whisk together the mustard and vinegar flavor base.
Add the sweet mustard, Dijon, white wine vinegar, salt, and white pepper to the dill-sugar mixture, whisking until it forms a dark, smooth paste.
- 03
Emulsify the oil slowly to prevent the sauce from breaking.
Place a damp towel under your bowl to hold it steady. While whisking constantly, add the oil a few drops at a time until the mixture thickens, then pour the rest in a very slow, continuous stream. An electric hand mixer on low speed works beautifully if you are in a hurry.
- 04
Adjust the consistency and drape the sauce over the gravlax.
The finished sauce should be glossy and pourable, like a slightly thin mayonnaise. Drape the gravlax on a platter and drizzle the sauce generously over the top.
Notes
Never use extra virgin olive oil for this sauce.
Its flavor is far too robust and the high-shear whisking will turn it bitter; stick to a completely neutral oil like canola or sunflower.
Mind your ingredient temperatures.
Make sure the mustards and oil are at room temperature to guarantee a stable emulsion.