Hiyayakko
冷奴·(hee-yah-yahk-ko)
Ichiju-Sansai on a Tuesday: Soup, Rice, and Sides
Slide the cold block from a plastic tub of silken tofu. In America, we’re taught tofu is a meat substitute to be pressed to death and disguised, but escaping the soggy, flavorless cube at a strip-mall sushi joint comes down to managing temperature and water. Drain the surface water so it doesn't dilute a dark pool of soy sauce, and let it rest on the counter so the ice-cold fridge temperature doesn't numb your tongue to the sweet, custardy soybean flavor; then grab a microplane for grating ginger, let the katsuobushi catch the breeze, and eat your cold block of hiyayakko on a humid August porch.
Ingredients
- silken tofu14 oz
- scallion1 med
- fresh ginger1 tsp
- bonito flakes1/4 cup
- Japanese soy sauce1 tbsp
- water1/2 tsp
- sugar1/8 tsp
Method
- 01
Drain and temper the tofu.
Gently wrap the entire block of tofu in two layers of paper towels, place it on a plate, and let it sit on your kitchen counter for 15 to 20 minutes. This wicks away surface moisture so your soy sauce won't turn into a watery puddle, and brings the tofu from a numb fridge temperature to about 60°F—the exact point where you can actually taste the sweet creaminess of the soybeans.
- 02
Prepare the toppings and mellow the soy sauce.
While the tofu rests, slice your scallions as thinly as humanly possible and grate the ginger. In a tiny bowl, mix the soy sauce with the water and sugar. Raw soy sauce is slightly too aggressive for delicate tofu; cutting it with a little water and sugar lets the soybean flavor shine through.
- 03
Portion, garnish, and serve immediately.
Unwrap the tofu and carefully cut the block in half down the middle to make two square portions. Place each square in a shallow bowl. Top generously with the bonito flakes, a little pile of grated ginger, and the sliced scallions. Do not pour the mellowed soy sauce over the tofu until the exact second you are sitting at the table ready to eat, or osmotic pressure will draw water out of the tofu and ruin the dish.
Notes
A note on tofu texture.
Silken (kinugoshi) is the undisputed king of hiyayakko for its custard-like mouthfeel. If you are absolutely forced to use firm tofu, increase the resting time slightly, but seek out silken if you want the authentic dish.
Vegan adaptation.
To achieve a similar depth of flavor without the bonito flakes, substitute finely shredded toasted nori and add a tiny drop of toasted sesame oil to your soy sauce to mimic the missing richness.
From Cook Japanese in America.