Heritage Rafute

Before you start

• Make a simple drop-lid (otoshibuta) if you don't own one.

  Cut a circle of parchment paper slightly smaller than your pot and poke a small hole in the center. This keeps the pork submerged and prevents the braising liquid from evaporating too quickly.

Ingredients

• skin-on pork belly block2 lb
• piece fresh ginger1 large
• katsuo dashi2 1/2 cup
• awamori1 cup
• kokuto1/2 cup
• Japanese dark soy sauce1/2 cup
• piece fresh ginger1 small
• hot steamed short-grain rice4 cup
• hot mustard1 tbsp

Method

1. 01

   Submerge the pork and whole ginger in cold water and bring to a boil.

   Place the whole block of pork belly and the large piece of ginger into a heavy-bottomed pot or Dutch oven. Cover completely with cold water and bring to a boil over medium-high heat, skimming off any foam or impurities that float to the top.

2. 02

   Simmer the pork for at least an hour, then let it cool completely in its own broth.

   Reduce the heat to a low simmer, partially cover the pot, and cook for 60 to 90 minutes. Turn off the heat and leave the pork to cool directly in the cooking water to prevent the meat from seizing and drying out.

3. 03

   Rinse the cooled pork and cut it into generous cubes.

   Remove the pork from the water, rinse gently under warm running water to remove any lingering scum, and cut the block into 1.5 to 2-inch squares.

4. 04

   Simmer the pork in the dashi, awamori, and black sugar.

   Wash out the pot, return the cubed pork, and pour in the dashi, awamori, and kokuto. Do not add the soy sauce yet. Bring to a gentle boil, reduce to a low simmer, and place a drop-lid directly on the meat. Simmer for 45 minutes.

5. 05

   Add the first half of the soy sauce to build the savory foundation.

   Remove the drop-lid, pour in a quarter cup of soy sauce, replace the lid, and simmer for another 45 minutes.

6. 06

   Add the remaining soy sauce and reduce to a glossy glaze.

   Pour in the final quarter cup of soy sauce and simmer uncovered for a final 20 to 30 minutes, basting occasionally, until a wooden chopstick effortlessly pierces the skin.

7. 07

   Rest overnight in the refrigerator, then reheat to serve.

   To truly replicate the grandmother experience and deepen the flavor, chill the pork overnight. The next day, lift off the solid white fat cap, gently reheat the pork in its gelatinous sauce for about 10 minutes, and serve over rice with julienned ginger and hot mustard.

Notes

• Sourcing skin-on pork belly is non-negotiable.

  In Okinawa, the skin is the entire point. Its collagen breaks down into a rich gelatin that naturally thickens the sauce and provides an incredible texture. Take a weekend trip to a local Asian supermarket or Mexican carnicería to find it.

• The awamori chemically breaks down the tough fat.

  Awamori is a unique, high-proof Okinawan spirit (30-40% ABV) that tenderizes the muscle fibers far better than sake ever could. If your liquor store doesn't stock it, look for a high-proof Japanese shochu.

• The two-stage soy sauce trick is a crucial grandmother technique.

  Dumping all the soy sauce in at the beginning hardens the meat and boils away its delicate roasted aromas. Staggering the additions seasons the meat deeply while preserving the fragrant volatile oils.

• Dashi and sugar substitutions.

  If you don't have time to make katsuo dashi from scratch, mix water with 1 1/2 teaspoons of a high-quality hondashi powder. For the kokuto, muscovado sugar or dark brown sugar mixed with a teaspoon of molasses works perfectly in a pinch.