Hang Yan Beng
杏仁餅·(hang-yan-beng)
Chapter 5: Sweets & Tea
Dim sum in America is an industrialized culinary ballet of clattering carts and rapid-fire stamp cards, rarely attempted at home. When the savory bamboo steamers are finally cleared and your three-hour brunch project winds down, the palate demands exactly one thing to accompany a fresh pot of pu-erh: the feather-light, lardy crunch of a Chinatown almond cookie. While the ancestral Macau biscuit relies on roasted mung bean flour, this is the unapologetic New York parlor classic—a golden, double-egg-washed cookie that shatters on impact and all but disappears when dipped in hot tea. Yes, this is exactly what Nom Wah tastes like.
Ingredients
- all-purpose flour1 1/4 cup
- powdered sugar3/4 cup
- cornstarch3 tbsp
- baking soda1 tsp
- baking powder1 tsp
- kosher salt1/2 tsp
- lard1/2 cup
- egg yolks3 large
- pure almond extract1 tsp
- raw whole almonds18 large
Method
- 01
Sift the dry foundation.
Sift the all-purpose flour, powdered sugar, cornstarch, baking soda, baking powder, and kosher salt into a large mixing bowl, whisking thoroughly to combine.
- 02
Emulsify the fats.
In a separate medium bowl, whisk together the melted lard, two of the egg yolks, and the almond extract until completely smooth.
- 03
Form the dough with a light touch.
Pour the wet mixture into the dry, folding gently with a rubber spatula until it begins to clump. Knead gently by hand for three to five minutes until it forms a cohesive, pliable ball. Do not overwork it; it should feel slightly crumbly, like pie crust. Over-kneading develops gluten and destroys the flaky texture.
- 04
Hydrate the flours.
Cover the dough and let it rest at room temperature for 20 minutes.
- 05
Toast the almonds.
While the dough rests, preheat the oven to 350°F. Spread the raw almonds on a baking sheet and toast them for exactly 5 minutes, then remove and let cool. Crank the oven heat up to 375°F.
- 06
Shape the disks.
Divide the rested dough into 18 equal spheres. Place them on a parchment-lined baking sheet, spacing them at least two inches apart, and gently flatten each into a thick disk with the palm of your hand.
- 07
Apply the double wash.
Beat the remaining egg yolk with a teaspoon of water. Brush the top and sides of every cookie. Wait exactly one minute, then brush them a second time. This double application is the secret to the distinct, splotchy, golden-lacquered pattern seen on restaurant carts.
- 08
Crown and crack.
Press one toasted almond firmly into the center of each cookie. The edges will crack slightly under the pressure—this is highly desirable and authentic to the dim sum parlor aesthetic.
- 09
Bake and cool.
Bake at 375°F for 15 to 18 minutes until they expand and develop a deep, beautiful golden-brown color. Let them cool on the hot tray for 10 minutes—they will be far too fragile to move immediately—before transferring to a wire rack.
Notes
Respect the lard.
Butter may be substituted in a pinch, but high-quality lard dictates the true crumb, preventing gluten formation and giving the cookie its authentic, sandy texture.
From Cook Dim Sum at Home.