Hambagu
ハンバーグ·(hanbāgu)
The Yōshoku Table: Western-Influenced Comfort
This is not a burger destined for a bun. The rhythmic slap of a patty tossed between palms and the aroma of Bulldog tonkatsu sauce hitting a hot cast-iron skillet mean one thing: Tuesday night Hambagu. After hydrating the panko in milk to create a sponge for the meat's juices and violently kneading cold beef and pork with salt to alter the proteins before anything else goes in the bowl, let the minced onions sweat and collapse; then get the skillet smoking, sear the patty until the crust blisters, and drown the whole thing in pan gravy to watch the meat juices mix with steamed white rice.
Before you start
Mince the onions as finely as possible.
Large chunks of onion will compromise the structural integrity of the meat matrix and cause the patties to crack while frying.
Ingredients
- neutral oil4 tsp
- yellow onion1/2 med
- panko breadcrumbs1/2 cup
- whole milk3 tbsp
- 80/20 ground beef12 oz
- ground pork4 oz
- kosher salt1/2 tsp
- egg1 large
- black pepper1/4 tsp
- ground nutmeg1/8 tsp
- red wine3 tbsp
- tomato ketchup3 tbsp
- Japanese Worcestershire sauce3 tbsp
- soy sauce1 tbsp
- unsalted butter1 tbsp
Method
- 01
Sweeten and cool the onions.
Heat two teaspoons of neutral oil in a small skillet over medium heat, sautéing the minced onion for five to seven minutes until pale gold and sweet, then spread them onto a plate and chill completely in the refrigerator.
- 02
Hydrate the panko.
Mix the panko and milk in a small bowl and let it sit for five minutes to form a thick paste that will act as a sponge to keep the patties juicy.
- 03
Perform the salt knead.
Place the cold ground beef, ground pork, and salt into a large mixing bowl and knead vigorously with your hands for two minutes until the meat turns slightly pale, smears the sides of the bowl, and becomes highly sticky and fibrous.
- 04
Mix the remaining patty ingredients.
Fold in the thoroughly chilled onions, milk-soaked panko, egg, black pepper, and nutmeg using your fingers until just combined, working quickly so your hands do not melt the animal fat.
- 05
Expel the air and dimple the centers.
Divide the mixture into four equal portions, lightly oil your hands, and toss each portion firmly from palm to palm ten to fifteen times to force out trapped air bubbles before forming a three-quarter-inch thick oval and pressing two fingers into the center to create a shallow dimple.
- 06
Sear and steam the meat.
Heat the remaining one tablespoon of oil in a large skillet over medium heat, sear the patties dimple-side up for three minutes until crusted on the bottom, then flip, reduce heat to medium-low, add one tablespoon of water, cover tightly, and steam for seven to eight minutes until the juices run clear when pierced.
- 07
Build the homestyle pan sauce.
Transfer the patties to a serving plate and immediately deglaze the skillet with the red wine over medium-low heat, letting it bubble for thirty seconds before whisking in the ketchup, Worcestershire, and soy sauce.
- 08
Mount with butter and serve.
Turn off the heat and swirl in the butter until melted and glossy, then generously spoon the warm sauce over each Hambagu and serve immediately alongside hot steamed rice.
Notes
Adjusting for American Worcestershire sauce.
Japanese Worcestershire is significantly sweeter and fruitier than American brands; if using a brand like Lea & Perrins, use one tablespoon of Worcestershire mixed with one tablespoon of honey or sugar and an extra tablespoon of ketchup instead.
Do not skip the nutmeg.
Nutmeg is the signature aromatic in Japanese ground meat dishes, utilized to neutralize any gaminess in the pork and provide a distinctly authentic flavor profile.
From Cook Japanese in America.