Guías y Chochoyotes en Mole Verde
Guías y Chochoyotes en Mole Verde·(gee-as ee cho-cho-yo-tes en mo-leh ver-deh)
El Arte de los Moles: Demystifying the Sauces
In Oaxaca, mole isn't just a sauce; it's a living testament to the milpa. Forget the heavy, chocolate-laced versions you know. A true mole verde is a bright, herbaceous broth thickened strictly with corn masa, not nuts or seeds. Finding fresh squash vines on a Tuesday in the States is a fool's errand, so we adapt with robust leafy greens while preserving the uncompromising soul of the dish. The real magic lies in the chochoyotes—little masa dumplings with a functional thumbprint dimple that poach right in the vibrant, anise-scented stew. It's ancient, unapologetic comfort food, dialed in for your weeknight kitchen.
Before you start
Prep all vegetables and herbs before you start cooking.
The mole moves quickly once the chicken begins simmering. Having the tomatillos husked, the chayote diced, and the raw herbs washed and ready will save you from scrambling.
Ingredients
- masa harina1 1/4 cup
- warm water1 3/4 cup
- rendered pork lard2 tbsp
- kosher salt1/2 tsp
- boneless skinless chicken thighs1 1/2 lb
- low-sodium chicken broth6 cup
- tomatillos1 lb
- white onion1/2 med
- garlic3 large cloves
- jalapeno chiles2 med
- ground cumin1/4 tsp
- whole cloves3 small
- black peppercorns4 small
- chayote squash1 large
- zucchini2 med
- fresh green beans1 cup
- Swiss chard1 large bunch
- fresh hoja santa leaf1 large
- fresh cilantro1 small bunch
- fresh flat-leaf parsley1 small bunch
- fresh epazote3 sprigs
Method
- 01
Form the masa dumplings.
In a bowl, mix 1 cup of the masa harina, the salt, and the lard, then gradually stream in 3/4 cup of the warm water until a soft, pliable dough forms. Roll into marble-sized balls and press a deep dimple into the center of each with your thumb—this engineered ombliguito ensures they cook through evenly. Cover with a damp towel and set aside.
- 02
Build the broth and simmer the hearty vegetables.
In a heavy-bottomed Dutch oven, bring the chicken broth to a gentle simmer. Add the chicken thighs, diced chayote, and green beans, and simmer for about 15 minutes until the chicken is mostly cooked through.
- 03
Boil and blend the green base.
While the chicken simmers, boil the tomatillos, jalapeños, onion, and garlic in a medium saucepan for 10 minutes until the tomatillos turn a muted olive green. Transfer the solids to a blender with a slotted spoon, add the cumin, cloves, and black peppercorns, and blend until completely smooth.
- 04
Thicken the stew with a masa slurry.
Whisk the remaining 1/4 cup masa harina with the remaining 1 cup warm water until entirely smooth. Pour the blended tomatillo base into your main pot, then pour the masa slurry through a fine-mesh strainer directly into the simmering broth, stirring continuously for five minutes until the liquid transforms into a rich, velvety stew.
- 05
Poach the chochoyotes.
Add the sliced zucchini to the stew, then carefully drop the formed dumplings into the pot one by one. Do not stir aggressively; let them simmer undisturbed for 10 to 12 minutes until they float to the surface and feel firm.
- 06
Blend the raw herbal finish.
Rinse the blender, then combine the fresh cilantro, parsley, epazote, and hoja santa leaf with a half-cup of water. Blend until the mixture is bright emerald green and completely liquefied.
- 07
Wilt the greens and fold in the herbs off the heat.
Fold the chopped Swiss chard into the gently boiling pot, letting it wilt for just two minutes. Turn off the heat entirely and gently stir in the raw herbal puree—boiling these delicate herbs will destroy their volatile oils and vibrant color. Serve immediately in wide, shallow bowls.
Notes
Seek out fresh hoja santa for the true Oaxacan experience.
If you absolutely cannot find it at a local Latin market, an extra handful of cilantro and a tiny pinch of fennel frond will loosely mimic its aromatic footprint, though the authentic leaf is the true soul of the dish.
From Cook Oaxacan in America.