Gratin Dauphinois
(grah-TAN doh-fin-WAH)
Chapter 3 — The Sides
If you have ever ordered a steak frites at a bustling, mosaic-floored institution in SoHo, you know the meat is only half the story. The side dish—a structurally flawless, bubbling brick of thinly layered potatoes—is what anchors the plate. French purists from the Dauphiné region will furiously inform you that a true gratin contains zero cheese and zero stock. Let them complain. We are cooking in the American brasserie tradition here, hijacking the silken dairy of the Dauphinois, adding the savory depth of Savoyard stock, and finishing with an unapologetic crust of Alpine Gruyère. It demands premium cultured butter, a rigid ratio of cold cream to stock, and the patience to press it overnight. Do the work, and you will understand exactly what Spring Street tastes like.
Before you start
Infuse and chill the liquid gold.
Combine the heavy cream, stock, 4 smashed garlic cloves, thyme, rosemary, salt, white pepper, and nutmeg in a saucepan. Simmer, steep for 30 minutes on the lowest heat setting, strain through a fine-mesh sieve, and refrigerate until entirely cold. This must be done before assembling the gratin.
Ingredients
- heavy cream2 cup
- chicken or veal stock1 cup
- garlic4 large clove
- fresh thyme3 sprigs
- fresh rosemary2 sprigs
- kosher salt1 tsp
- white pepper1/2 tsp
- nutmeg1/4 tsp
- Yukon Gold potatoes2 1/2 lb
- garlic1 large clove
- cultured French butter2 tbsp
- authentic Gruyère cheese2 cup
Method
- 01
Prepare the baking vessel.
Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C). Vigorously rub the inside of a 10-inch cast iron skillet or heavy enameled Dutch oven with the halved garlic clove to release its volatile oils against the iron, then smear the interior generously with the cultured butter.
- 02
Coat the potatoes in the cold liquid.
In a large bowl, gently toss the unwashed potato slices with the completely chilled cream and stock infusion. It is scientifically paramount that the potatoes go into cold liquid so they release their starches slowly as the oven heats, creating a flawless, self-thickening velvet bind without curdling.
- 03
Build the gratin architecture.
Layer the potatoes in concentric circles in the buttered vessel, overlapping each slice halfway. After completing two full layers, sprinkle a light, even handful of the grated Gruyère, and repeat until all potatoes are used.
- 04
Seal and bake.
Pour any remaining cold cream mixture from the bowl over the top until the liquid comes just to the bottom of the uppermost layer of potatoes. Cover tightly with heavy-duty aluminum foil and bake for 45 minutes to let the potatoes steam.
- 05
Blister the crust.
Remove the foil, scatter the remaining heavy handful of Gruyère evenly across the top, and bake uncovered for another 30 to 40 minutes. You want a deep, golden-brown crust, and a paring knife inserted into the center must meet absolutely zero resistance.
- 06
Execute the brasserie press.
Remove from the oven and let cool for one hour at room temperature. Place a sheet of parchment paper directly onto the surface of the gratin, place a smaller pan or plate on top, weigh it down with two heavy cans, and chill overnight in the refrigerator to compress the layers and set the starches.
- 07
Cut, reheat, and serve.
The next day, preheat your oven to 375°F (190°C). Remove the weights and parchment, cut the chilled, solid gratin into precise geometric squares, and bake on a parchment-lined sheet for 15 to 20 minutes until bubbling hot and the cheese has re-crisped on top.
Notes
Never rinse the sliced potatoes.
Washing the potatoes flushes the essential surface amylopectin down the drain. Without that starch, the dairy will break and curdle under high heat.
Source proper block cheese.
Pre-shredded cheese is coated in cellulose to prevent caking, which actively sabotages a smooth melt. Grate an authentic, aged block of Gruyère yourself.
Use standard pasteurized heavy cream if possible.
Ultra-pasteurized (UP) cream alters the dairy proteins and is more prone to breaking. Seek out standard pasteurized cream from a local dairy or high-end grocer for a superior bind.