Goya Champuru
ゴーヤーチャンプルー·(gōyā chanpurū)
Champuru Culture: Weeknight Stir-Fries
In Okinawa, champuru means to mix things up, an edible manifestation of the island's history as a maritime crossroads. It is the ultimate grandmother philosophy: take what you have, treat it with respect, and feed your family. Goya, the unapologetically bitter melon, cuts right through the oppressive heat and fatigue of a long summer day. Since true, dense Okinawan island tofu is impossible to find in a standard American grocery store, this recipe relies on a pragmatic trick, microwaving standard firm tofu to drive out the water before tearing it by hand. Those ragged edges soak up the rendered pork fat and soy sauce, turning an intimidating vegetable into pure, nostalgic comfort food that tastes exactly like home.
Before you start
Cure the goya to tame its bitterness.
Place the sliced goya in a bowl, add the kosher salt and sugar, and massage it in with your hands. Let it sit for exactly 10 minutes to draw out the water-soluble bitter compounds, then rinse thoroughly under cold water and squeeze firmly to remove excess moisture.
Dehydrate the tofu in the microwave.
Wrap the block of firm tofu in two layers of heavy-duty paper towels and place it on a microwave-safe plate. Microwave on high for 3 minutes to drive out the water, then carefully unwrap it and tear it into rustic, bite-sized chunks by hand.
Ingredients
- goya1 med
- firm tofu14 oz
- thinly sliced pork belly or Spam6 oz
- large eggs2 large
- kosher salt1/2 tsp
- sugar1/4 tsp
- neutral cooking oil1 tbsp
- toasted sesame oil1 tbsp
- soy sauce2 tsp
- katsuobushi1/4 cup
- black pepper1/4 tsp
Method
- 01
Sear the torn tofu in neutral oil until golden.
Heat the neutral oil in a large skillet or wok over medium-high heat. Add the tofu chunks in a single layer and let them sit undisturbed for 2 minutes to form a crust, then gently flip, sear the other side, and remove to a plate.
- 02
Render the pork fat.
Add the toasted sesame oil to the same pan along with the pork belly or Spam. Sauté for 3 to 4 minutes until the meat begins to crisp and releases its rich fat into the pan.
- 03
Flash-fry the goya over high heat.
Add the squeezed goya to the rendered pork fat and increase the heat to high. Toss rapidly for about 2 minutes until the goya is vibrant green but retains a crisp bite, letting the pork fat coat the vegetable to mask its bitterness.
- 04
Reunite the ingredients and season.
Return the golden tofu to the pan, then add the soy sauce, black pepper, and half of the katsuobushi. Toss gently to combine without breaking the fragile tofu.
- 05
Set the eggs into soft curds.
Push all the ingredients to the edges of the pan and pour the beaten eggs into the empty center. Let the eggs sit undisturbed for 15 seconds until the bottom starts to set, then gently fold them through the vegetables to prevent a soggy, muddy scramble.
- 06
Garnish and serve immediately.
Turn off the heat, add one final tiny splash of soy sauce for aroma, and transfer to a platter. Garnish generously with the remaining katsuobushi and serve with hot white rice.
Notes
Selecting the right goya dictates the flavor profile.
If you prefer a milder bitterness, look for a paler green goya with large, wide exterior bumps. The tighter and darker the bumps, the more intensely bitter the melon will be.
Never cut the dehydrated tofu with a knife.
Tearing the tofu by hand creates jagged, irregular edges that act like a sponge, dramatically increasing the surface area to absorb the rendered pork fat and soy sauce.
From Cook Okinawan in America.