Goya Champuru
ゴーヤーチャンプルー·(gōyā chanpurū)
Champuru Culture: Weeknight Stir-Fries
In Okinawa, "champuru" means to mix things up. It’s the ultimate grandmotherly philosophy: take what you have, treat it with respect, and feed your family. A bad champuru is watery and mushy, but a great one is vibrant, slightly crunchy, and deeply savory. Since dense Okinawan island tofu is virtually impossible to find in an American supermarket, we use a brilliant weeknight trick: microwaving standard firm tofu to drive out the water, then tearing it by hand so the jagged edges soak up all the rendered pork fat. It takes an intimidating, bracingly bitter melon and turns it into pure, nostalgic comfort food.
Before you start
Extract the bitterness from the goya.
Massage the sliced goya with the kosher salt and sugar in a bowl and let it sit for 10 minutes. Rinse it thoroughly under cold water, then grab handfuls and squeeze them firmly to remove the excess water.
Dehydrate the tofu.
Wrap the block of tofu in two layers of heavy-duty paper towels and microwave on high for 3 minutes to drive out the moisture. Once cool enough to handle, tear the block by hand into rustic, bite-sized chunks—the jagged edges are the secret to absorbing the pan sauces.
Ingredients
- goya1 med
- firm tofu14 oz
- thinly sliced pork belly or Spam6 oz
- eggs2 large
- kosher salt1/2 tsp
- sugar1/4 tsp
- neutral cooking oil1 tbsp
- toasted sesame oil1 tbsp
- soy sauce2 tsp
- katsuobushi1/2 cup
- black pepper1/4 tsp
Method
- 01
Sear the tofu to build a crust.
Heat the neutral oil in a large skillet or wok over medium-high heat, add the torn tofu in a single layer, and let it sit undisturbed for two minutes until golden brown on the bottom. Gently flip to sear the other side, then remove to a plate.
- 02
Render the pork fat.
Add the sesame oil to the same pan along with the pork belly or Spam. Sauté for 3 to 4 minutes until the meat begins to crisp and releases its flavorful fat into the pan.
- 03
Flash-fry the goya.
Add the squeezed goya to the pork fat and turn the heat up to high. Toss rapidly for about 2 minutes so the hot lipids coat the melon, masking its bitterness while keeping it vibrant and crunchy.
- 04
Bring the dish together.
Return the golden tofu to the pan, season with the soy sauce, black pepper, and half of the katsuobushi, and toss gently to combine without breaking the tofu.
- 05
Set the eggs into soft curds.
Push all the ingredients to the edges of the pan and pour the beaten eggs into the empty center. Let them sit undisturbed for about 15 seconds until the bottom sets, then gently fold them through the vegetables to prevent a soggy, muddy mess.
- 06
Garnish and serve immediately.
Turn off the heat, drizzle one final tiny splash of soy sauce over the top for aroma, and transfer to a serving platter generously garnished with the remaining katsuobushi.
Notes
Selecting the right goya.
If you prefer a milder flavor, look for a paler green goya with larger, wider bumps on the exterior.
From Cook Okinawan in America.