Gomen
የጾም ጎመን·(ye-tsom go-men)
Yetsom Weeknights: The Wednesday & Friday Fast
Gomen isn't a weekend project; when a bundle of supermarket collards hits the cutting board on a Wednesday night, it acts as a savory counterweight to fiery lentil stews. Because this is a fasting dish, traditional spiced butter is strictly out; the standard move uses ye'qimem zeyet, a fragrant spiced oil, but rather than brewing a whole batch on a Tuesday afternoon, you'll bloom the spices directly in a wide skillet. Crank the burner, watch the greens collapse, and eat.
Before you start
Take the time to slice the greens into a fine chiffonade.
Do not just chop the greens haphazardly, which leads to tough, chewy stems. Tear the leafy greens away from the thick stalks, stack five or six leaves at a time, roll them tightly like a cigar, and slice them into very thin ribbons so they steam rapidly and melt into the aromatics.
Ingredients
- collard greens1 1/2 lb
- neutral oil1/4 cup
- ground Korarima1/2 tsp
- ground cumin1/2 tsp
- ground coriander1/4 tsp
- ground fenugreek1/8 tsp
- red onion1 med
- garlic4 cloves
- fresh ginger1 tbsp
- kosher salt1 tsp
- vegetable broth1/4 cup
- fresh jalapeño1 med
Method
- 01
Heat a large, wide skillet or Dutch oven over medium heat and add the diced red onion without any oil.
Let the onions dry-toast, stirring frequently, until they begin to soften, release their moisture, and take on a slight char. This concentrates their sweetness and prevents them from boiling in the oil later.
- 02
Push the onions to the edges of the pan and pour the neutral oil into the center.
Immediately add the garlic, ginger, Korarima, cumin, coriander, and fenugreek directly into the oil. Let the aromatics sizzle and bloom for 30 to 60 seconds until highly fragrant, then stir everything together to combine. You have just created a quick pan-infused spiced oil.
- 03
Add the shredded collard greens to the skillet and toss thoroughly to coat them in the spiced oil mixture.
If the greens do not all fit at once, add them in handfuls, letting them wilt slightly before adding more. Add the kosher salt and pour in the vegetable broth.
- 04
Reduce the heat to medium-low, cover the skillet tightly, and let the greens steam-braise for 15 to 20 minutes.
Stir occasionally. The greens are done when they are dark, deeply tender, and most of the liquid has evaporated.
- 05
Remove the lid, stir in the sliced jalapeño, and cook uncovered for two more minutes.
The jalapeño isn't meant to make the dish spicy; it adds a fresh, vegetal aroma that perfectly balances the slow-cooked greens. Taste for seasoning, adding a bit more salt if necessary, and serve hot.
Notes
Sourcing Korarima is worth the effort.
Ethiopian black cardamom has a smoky, savory depth entirely different from standard green cardamom. If you are in an absolute pinch, use one-quarter teaspoon of green cardamom mixed with a microscopic dusting of cloves and nutmeg. It won't be identical, but it will carry the dish.