Ginataang Kalabasa at Sitaw
(gee-nah-tah-AHNG kah-lah-BAH-sah aht SEE-taw)
The Weeknight Ulam (Fast, Unapologetic Dinners)
If there is a dish that teleports a first-generation kid straight back to the Formica kitchen table of their youth, it is this one. Sweet, dense squash and crisp long beans swim in a deeply savory, shrimp-paste-laced coconut broth that practically begs to be flooded over a mountain of white rice. There is no tedious grating of fresh coconut here; just the pure, unfiltered comfort of a Filipino home, built on rendered pork fat and a clever weeknight hack that saves your fingers from a notoriously stubborn squash.
Before you start
Par-cook the squash.
Kabocha squash has a famously stubborn exterior. Before you try to cut it, pierce the whole squash with a fork a few times and microwave it on high for 3 to 4 minutes. This slightly softens the tough skin, saving both prep time and your fingers. The skin is entirely edible, so there is no need to peel it.
Ingredients
- kabocha squash1 med
- yardlong beans or green beans1/2 lb
- yellow onion1 med
- garlic4 clove
- fresh ginger1 small piece
- Thai bird's eye chilies2 small
- neutral cooking oil1 tbsp
- pork belly1/2 lb
- jarred sautéed shrimp paste2 tbsp
- full-fat coconut milk1 can
- water or pork broth1/2 cup
- medium shrimp1/2 lb
- black pepper1 pinch
- cooked white rice4 cup
Method
- 01
Render the pork fat.
Heat the oil in a large, deep skillet or Dutch oven over medium-high heat, adding the pork belly strips in a single layer to brown and crisp for 4 to 5 minutes before stirring to release their savory fat.
- 02
Build the flavor base.
Lower the heat to medium, toss in the onion, garlic, and ginger matchsticks, and sauté in the rendered pork fat until the onions soften and turn translucent.
- 03
Awaken the bagoong.
Push the aromatics aside, add the shrimp paste directly to the hot pan, and vigorously fry it for a minute or two to kill the raw fishiness and unlock a deep, caramelized umami before stirring everything together.
- 04
Simmer the squash.
Pour in the coconut milk and water, scraping up any browned bits from the pan. Bring the liquid to a gentle, bubbling simmer—never a rolling boil, or the rich coconut cream will curdle—then fold in the cubed squash, cover, and cook until tender, about 10 to 12 minutes.
- 05
Finish with the beans and shrimp.
Stir in the green beans and shrimp, cover, and cook for another 3 to 5 minutes just until the beans are bright and crisp-tender and the shrimp turn perfectly opaque.
- 06
Season and serve.
Remove the pan from the heat, hit the stew with a pinch of black pepper, and ladle it immediately alongside massive plates of hot steamed white rice.
Notes
The magic of ginger.
Do not omit the ginger matchsticks. They provide a sharp, aromatic lift that cuts through the intense richness of the coconut milk and pork fat, perfectly neutralizing any gaminess.
Sourcing shrimp paste.
Bagoong alamang (sautéed shrimp paste) is the undeniable backbone of this dish. You can find it in jars in the Filipino aisle of your local Asian market. If you absolutely must, substitute one and a half tablespoons of high-quality fish sauce, but know you are trading away a bit of the soul of the dish.
From Cook Filipino in America.