Garnachas Istmeñas con Carne de Res
(gar-NAH-chas ees-MAY-nyas)
Antojitos & The Masa Life: Street Food at Home
In the sweltering night markets of Juchitán, the matriarchs of the Isthmus of Tehuantepec hand over something miraculous: a thick masa disk layered with pulverized beef and a smoky salsa flash-fried directly into the dough. It is a masterpiece of texture and acidity, crowned by the fermented funk of a pineapple-vinegar slaw. A home cook in the States might not have a barrel of pineapple vinegar on hand, but they can orchestrate this exact symphony on a Wednesday night using apple cider vinegar, strategic weekend prep, and a willingness to let hot oil and salsa do their loud, messy, and absolutely essential dance.
Before you start
Start the curtido at least twenty-four hours in advance.
In a large jar, pack the cabbage, carrots, jalapeños, and sliced onion. Whisk the vinegar, water, oregano, two teaspoons of salt, and sugar, pour it over the vegetables, and massage gently before sealing and refrigerating.
Boil and pulverize the beef.
Simmer the beef chunks, whole onion half, smashed garlic, and one teaspoon of salt in water until tender, about one and a half hours. Let cool, then pulse in a food processor until it resembles a coarse, fluffy crumble. Sauté the diced onion in a tablespoon of oil, stir in the ground beef for two minutes, and refrigerate.
Blend the smoky salsa.
Boil the tomatoes and morita chilies for fifteen minutes until soft. Blend until smooth with the raw garlic, quarter onion, and a generous pinch of salt, then store in the fridge.
Ingredients
- green cabbage1/2 large
- carrots2 large
- jalapenos2 med
- white onion1/2 med
- dried Mexican oregano1 tbsp
- apple cider vinegar1/2 cup
- water1/2 cup
- kosher salt2 tsp
- sugar1/4 tsp
- beef flank steak1 1/2 lb
- white onion1/2 med
- white onion1/2 med
- garlic4 large cloves
- kosher salt1 tsp
- neutral oil1 tbsp
- Roma tomatoes4 med
- dried morita chilies3 med
- garlic2 large cloves
- white onion1/4 med
- kosher salt1 tsp
- fresh corn masa2 lb
- high-heat oil1 cup
- Queso Cotija1 cup
Method
- 01
Shape and par-cook the masa.
Roll the masa into one-ounce balls and press them to a quarter-inch thickness, pinching a slight rim around the edge. Toast on a dry skillet over medium heat for one to two minutes per side to set the structure.
- 02
Set up the frying station.
Heat a quarter-inch of oil in a heavy-bottomed skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering, keeping the par-cooked masa, pulverized beef, and salsa right next to the stove.
- 03
Flash-fry the garnachas.
Place a few masa disks into the hot oil, immediately spooning a tablespoon of beef onto the center of each, followed by a tablespoon of salsa poured directly over the meat.
- 04
Let the salsa and masa fuse.
Stand back as the salsa sputters in the hot oil, allowing it to fry for one to two minutes so the reducing salsa soaks deep into the porous masa and pulverized beef.
- 05
Garnish and serve.
Carefully transfer the hot garnachas to a platter, top generously with the pickled curtido and grated Cotija cheese, and serve immediately.
Notes
Do not skip the food processor for the beef.
Authentic garnachas rely on beef that is practically powdery, allowing it to absorb the flash-fried salsa and adhere to the masa in a way that regular shredded beef cannot.
Expect the hot oil to sputter violently.
Pouring wet salsa into hot oil is the secret to this dish, but it causes a mess. Use a splatter screen if you have one, and do not lean directly over the pan.
From Cook Oaxacan in America.