Gaeng Som
แกงส้ม·(gang sohm)
Sunday Simmers: Deep Thai Heritage
A proper gaeng som requires a block of wet tamarind and heat. As the broth bubbles, the curry bypasses the coconut-heavy sweetness of takeout menus, standing instead as the daily anchor of a weeknight dinner packed with supermarket shrimp, sliced daikon, and green papaya. To achieve a velvety body without spending an hour pounding river fish in a granite mortar, the solution is a humble can of tuna blitzed straight into the curry paste—a practical technique that yields a fast bowl held entirely together by that sour tamarind spine.
Before you start
Hydrate the dried chilies completely.
Ensure the chilies soak in hot water for at least 15 minutes before blending; otherwise, your paste will be gritty instead of velvety.
Ingredients
- dried Guajillo or Puya chilies4 large
- dried Arbol chilies3 med
- shallots5 med
- garlic cloves4 small
- fresh or brined krachai3 tbsp
- Thai shrimp paste1 tbsp
- kosher salt1 tsp
- chunk light tuna in water5 oz
- water or low-sodium chicken stock4 cup
- tamarind concentrate4 tbsp
- fish sauce2 tbsp
- palm sugar1 1/2 tbsp
- daikon radish1/2 large
- carrot1 large
- napa cabbage2 cup
- green beans1 cup
- large shrimp1 lb
- fresh lime juice1 tbsp
Method
- 01
Blend the soaked chilies, shallots, garlic, krachai, shrimp paste, salt, and drained tuna with a half cup of the stock until completely smooth.
The canned tuna acts as a brilliant weeknight protein sponge, expanding in the hot broth to replicate the velvety body of traditionally pounded river fish.
- 02
Bring the remaining stock to a rolling boil in a medium pot and stir in the blended curry paste.
Let it boil vigorously for a few minutes to cook the raw shallots and garlic.
- 03
Season the broth with tamarind concentrate, fish sauce, and palm sugar, stirring until dissolved.
Taste carefully here; it should hit your palate with a deep sourness first, followed by a savory umami punch and a subtle, rounding sweetness.
- 04
Drop in the daikon radish and carrots, cover, and simmer vigorously for about six minutes until tender.
- 05
Gently press the napa cabbage and green beans into the broth and cook until the cabbage wilts.
The cabbage will release its own sweet water, further balancing the tartness of the soup.
- 06
Return the broth to a strong boil and add the shrimp in a single layer without stirring.
This is the golden rule of Thai seafood soups; stirring before the protein sets releases aquatic odors into the broth, so simply push the shrimp under the surface with a ladle and leave them be.
- 07
Turn off the heat entirely once the shrimp turn completely pink and opaque.
Give the pot one gentle stir, squeeze in the fresh lime juice for a final high note, and serve immediately with steaming jasmine rice.
Notes
The Krachai Conundrum.
Krachai (fingerroot) is the soul of this curry's aroma. Look for it frozen or jarred at your local Asian market; if absolutely forced to omit it, ensure your shrimp are flawlessly fresh to avoid fishy odors.
Taming the Tamarind.
American supermarket tamarind pastes vary wildly in acidity. Start with the recommended amount, but be prepared to adjust until the broth makes the sides of your mouth water without causing an aggressive pucker.
From Cook Thai in America.