
Fung Jao
豉汁蒸鳳爪·(fuhng jaau)
Chapter 2: The Steamed
A true dim sum chicken foot is fried before it is ever steamed. Known as Fung Jao, these "Phoenix Claws" are the ultimate prize for texture-seekers: a meltingly soft, gelatinous skin deeply wrinkled like a tiger's pelt, coated in a glossy, fermented black bean lacquer. In Cantonese kitchens, this texture is built through an unhurried trial by fire and ice: you will blanch, you will deep-fry until the skin blisters, you will shock in an ice water bath, and you will steam them in a bamboo steamer.
Ingredients
- chicken feet1 1/2 lb
- white vinegar1 tbsp
- maltose or white sugar1 tbsp
- neutral oil6 cup
- star anise2 med
- cinnamon stick1 med
- fresh ginger3 med
- bay leaves2 med
- salt1 tsp
- fermented black beans2 tbsp
- garlic3 med
- neutral oil1 tbsp
- oyster sauce2 tbsp
- light soy sauce1 tbsp
- dark soy sauce1 tsp
- Shaoxing wine1 tbsp
- granulated sugar1 tbsp
- ground white pepper1/4 tsp
- cornstarch1 tbsp
- water2 tbsp
- raw peanuts1 cup
- fresh red chili1/2 med
Method
- 01
Blanch the feet in cold water to fortify the skin.
Place the chicken feet, white vinegar, and maltose in a pot covered with cold water. Bring to a gentle boil over medium heat and simmer for exactly three minutes to draw out impurities and coat the skin in sugars for caramelization, then drain immediately.
- 02
Aggressively dry the feet to prevent a violent oil explosion.
Transfer the blanched feet to a wire cooling rack and pat them entirely dry with paper towels. Leave them to air dry at room temperature for at least an hour, or place them in a 175°F oven for thirty minutes until the skin feels slightly tacky.
- 03
Deep-fry the feet until heavily blistered.
Heat the six cups of neutral oil to 375°F in a heavy-bottomed Dutch oven. Using long tongs, carefully lower the feet into the oil in batches of five, using the pot lid in your other hand as a shield against splatters, and fry for five to eight minutes until a rich golden brown.
- 04
Shock the fried feet in ice water to create the tiger skin.
Transfer the rigid, blisteringly hot feet directly from the oil into an ice bath and leave them completely submerged for two to three hours. The violent temperature shock causes the skin to rapidly contract, pull away from the bone, and puff up into a wrinkled sponge.
- 05
Simmer the puffed feet in a fragrant broth.
Bring a fresh pot of water to a boil with the star anise, cinnamon, ginger, bay leaves, and salt. Add the shocked chicken feet and simmer gently for forty-five minutes to melt the cartilage, then drain and use a heavy cleaver to chop each foot in half straight down the palm.
- 06
Build the glossy black bean lacquer.
In a small saucepan over medium-low heat, sauté the minced garlic and chopped fermented black beans in one tablespoon of oil until deeply fragrant. Stir in the oyster sauce, light and dark soy sauces, Shaoxing wine, sugar, and white pepper, then whisk in the cornstarch and cold water mixture until it forms a thick, heavy glaze.
- 07
Marinate the feet overnight.
In a large bowl, toss the chopped chicken feet with the thickened black bean sauce until every crevice of the tiger skin is coated. Cover tightly and refrigerate overnight, or at least four hours, allowing the porous skin to absorb the umami.
- 08
Steam the feet over a bed of boiled peanuts.
Lay a single layer of boiled peanuts on a small heat-proof plate and arrange the marinated chicken feet over them, spooning any extra gelatinous sauce over the top and garnishing with red chili. Set the plate inside a bamboo steamer over rapidly boiling water and steam for fifteen to twenty minutes until unfathomably tender.
Notes
Planning the cart-service experience at home.
Dim sum is a symphony that requires items to hit the table in simultaneous waves. Execute your dough work, frying, and marinating on Saturday. Come Sunday morning, stack your bamboo baskets over a rolling boil: hardy items like Fung Jao and Siu Mai go in first, while delicate Har Gow go in last to steam for exactly six minutes. Time your potstickers to hit the skillet as the baskets steam.
From Cook Dim Sum at Home.