Frittata di Maccheroni
(free-TAH-tah dee mah-keh-ROH-nee)
La Merenda: The 4:00 PM After-School Ritual
In Naples, they don't throw food away. They resurrect it. This is cucina povera at its most brilliant—taking leftover pasta and turning it into a dense, beautifully charred pie meant to be wrapped in a napkin and eaten on the walk home. No fluffy whisked eggs, no milk to dilute the bind. Just starch, fat, a heavy hand of black pepper, and the patience to let the pan build a serious crust. It is a grandmother's ingenuity, served by the slice.
Before you start
Cook and cool the pasta.
Boil the spaghetti in heavily salted water, draining two minutes before the package instructs for a strict al dente. Toss with a drop of oil so it doesn't clump, spread it on a baking sheet, and let it cool completely to room temperature so the starches firm up.
Ingredients
- dried spaghetti1 lb
- eggs5 large
- Parmigiano-Reggiano1/2 cup
- low-moisture whole milk mozzarella5 oz
- thick-cut Italian salami4 oz
- black pepper1 tsp
- fine sea salt1/4 tsp
- extra virgin olive oil4 tbsp
Method
- 01
Mix the binder without incorporating air.
Crack the eggs into a large bowl with the grated cheese, black pepper, and salt. Beat them with a fork just until the yolks and whites blend, taking care not to whisk vigorously since we want a dense pie rather than a fluffy soufflé.
- 02
Massage the ingredients together.
Dump the cooled spaghetti, mozzarella cubes, and salami into the eggs. Use your hands or two forks to aggressively toss the mixture until every strand is coated and the heavy bits are evenly distributed.
- 03
Build the crust.
Heat two tablespoons of the olive oil in a 10-inch or 12-inch non-stick skillet over medium heat. Slide in the pasta mixture and immediately press it down firmly all over with a spatula, flattening the spaghetti into an even, tight disc.
- 04
Let it sear undisturbed.
Cook uncovered for 7 to 10 minutes. Do not touch it until the bottom forms a deep golden, crispy crust and you can feel the entire pie slide freely as one solid unit when you shake the pan.
- 05
Execute the flip of faith.
Place a flat plate or smooth pot lid larger than your skillet over the top. Put one hand flat on the center of the plate, grab the skillet handle with the other, and in one swift, confident motion, flip them over together.
- 06
Crisp the bottom.
Return the skillet to the stove and add the remaining two tablespoons of olive oil. Gently slide the frittata off the plate and back into the pan to cook the wet side for another 6 to 8 minutes until equally crispy.
- 07
Rest before serving.
Slide the finished frittata onto a cutting board and let it sit for at least 15 minutes before cutting. It needs this time to set properly, otherwise it will fall apart.
Notes
Use leftovers if you have them.
The true Neapolitan way is to use yesterday's pasta, even if it's already lightly coated in tomato sauce. If you have a pound of leftovers in the fridge, skip the boiling and cooling steps entirely.
Never add milk.
Many Americanized recipes call for a splash of milk in the eggs. This is a fundamental error that waters down the bind, leaving the top dry while the bottom burns. Stick to eggs and the fat from the cheese.
Buy block cheese.
Pre-shredded cheese is coated in anti-caking agents that will prevent it from melting into the characteristic stringy pull we are looking for. Buy a block and cube it yourself.
From Cook Italian in America.