Frijoles Negros
El Alma de la Cocina: Foundations & Marinades
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13 Authentic 14 frijoles 15 negros 16 dormidos 17 demand 18 a 19 grandmother 20 sorting 21 stones 22 on 23 a 24 newspaper 25 and 26 simmering 27 a 28 halved 29 green 30 bell 31 pepper, 32 drawing 33 depth 34 from 35 the 36 sofrito 37 as 38 the 39 onions 40 hiss, 41 the 42 earthy 43 punch 44 of 45 cumin, 46 and 47 the 48 delicate 49 tension 50 of 51 sugar 52 and 53 vinegar 54 at 55 the 56 finish. ( 44)
57 For 58 the 59 diaspora 60 kid 61 in 62 an 63 Ohio 64 suburb 65 craving 66 the 67 exact 68 smells 69 of 70 childhood 71 on 72 a 73 Tuesday 7
Before you start
Mise en place.
Have your dry spices and finishing liquids pre-measured before you begin cooking. Once the sofrito finishes sweating, the subsequent steps move quickly, and pausing to measure cumin is an easy way to burn your garlic.
Ingredients
- canned black beans30 oz
- low-sodium chicken broth1/2 cup
- dried bay leaf1 med
- extra-virgin olive oil4 tbsp
- yellow onion1 med
- green bell pepper1 small
- garlic cloves5 large
- ground cumin1 tsp
- dried oregano1/2 tsp
- kosher salt1/2 tsp
- black pepper1/4 tsp
- white wine vinegar1 tbsp
- dry white wine1 tbsp
- granulated sugar2 tsp
Method
- 01
Build the sofrito.
Heat three tablespoons of the olive oil in a heavy-bottomed saucepan or Dutch oven over medium heat. Add the onion and green bell pepper, sweating them slowly for 6 to 8 minutes until they are completely softened, translucent, and sweet. Do not rush this step; the entire foundation of the dish depends on coaxing the natural sweetness out of the vegetables.
- 02
Bloom the aromatics.
Stir in the garlic, cumin, and oregano. Cook for exactly one minute, stirring constantly, to toast the spices and take the raw, aggressive edge off the garlic without allowing it to brown or turn bitter.
- 03
Incorporate the beans.
Pour both cans of black beans into the pot, retaining every drop of their thick, starchy canning liquid. Add the chicken broth and bay leaf, then stir gently to integrate the beans with the sofrito base.
- 04
Thicken the potaje.
Bring the mixture to a gentle boil. Using the back of a wooden spoon or a potato masher, gently mash roughly a quarter of the beans against the side or bottom of the pot. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and let simmer for 15 minutes to allow the starches to thicken the stew.
- 05
Add the balancing finish.
Remove the lid and discard the bay leaf. Stir in the vinegar, dry white wine, sugar, salt, and black pepper. Simmer uncovered for 2 more minutes to cook off the raw alcohol and bring the sweet and sour notes into perfect alignment.
- 06
Gloss and serve.
Remove the pot from the heat. Drizzle with the final tablespoon of raw extra-virgin olive oil for an authentic, glossy finish, and serve immediately over fluffy white rice.
Notes
Retain the canning liquid.
Do not drain or rinse the beans under any circumstances. The residual starches suspended in the liquid are the primary vehicle for replicating the thick, viscous texture of a traditionally slow-simmered stew.
The Ají Cachucha substitution.
Authentic Cuban recipes demand the sweet, aromatic ají cachucha pepper. Because they are notoriously difficult to source in standard American grocery stores, the green bell pepper serves as the most accurate structural and vegetal stand-in.
From Cook Cuban in America.