Frijoles Charros Estilo Sur de Texas
Chapter 5 — Drinks, Sides & Desserts: Completing the Spread
Walk into any fluorescent-lit taqueria in the Rio Grande Valley, and a steaming styrofoam cup of frijoles charros slides across the counter before the meat even hits the scale. They start this feat of savory excess, born from Northern Mexican horsemen, long before the first tortilla hits the plancha, sweating out a fridge-clearing pile of processed pork—bacon, chorizo, ham, and the absolutely essential taqueria secret, sliced hot dogs—until rendered bacon fat coats the heavy Dutch oven. When you marry this deeply caramelized meat base with a massive pot of slow-simmered pinto beans, the broth transforms into pure velvet. Leave the pot simmering on the back burner. Use real pork lard, or you are missing the point entirely.
Ingredients
- dried pinto beans1 lb
- water10 cup
- white onion1/2 large
- garlic cloves4 med
- pork lard1 tbsp
- kosher salt1 tbsp
- pork lard2 tbsp
- thick-cut smoked bacon1/2 lb
- raw Mexican pork chorizo1/2 lb
- deli ham1/4 lb
- hot dogs4 med
- white onion1/2 large
- garlic cloves3 med
- serrano or jalapeño chiles2 med
- Roma tomatoes2 large
- ground cumin1/2 tsp
- Mexican oregano1/2 tsp
- fresh cilantro1/2 cup
- pickled jalapeño brine2 tbsp
- pork rinds with meat attached2 oz
Method
- 01
Boil the beans with aromatics and lard, reserving the salt until they are completely tender.
In a massive heavy-bottomed stockpot or Dutch oven, combine the rinsed beans, water, the intact onion half, smashed garlic, and 1 tablespoon of lard. Bring to a rolling boil over high heat, then immediately drop the heat to low, cover partially, and simmer gently for 1 1/2 to 2 hours. Do not add salt yet, as it tightens the skin of raw beans and halts gelatinization. Once the beans yield easily when squeezed between two fingers, stir in the kosher salt, simmer for 15 more minutes, then remove and discard the onion and garlic.
- 02
Render the bacon, chorizo, ham, and hot dogs in a large skillet.
About 30 minutes before the beans are done, place a large carbon-steel skillet or cast-iron pan over medium heat and melt the remaining 2 tablespoons of lard. Fry the diced bacon until crispy, push to the side, and fry the raw chorizo until completely cooked and releasing its bright red oil. Stir in the ham and hot dogs, tossing everything in the rendered fat until the hot dogs begin to blister and brown at the edges.
- 03
Sauté the aromatics into a deeply caramelized sofrito.
To the mountain of pork in your skillet, add the diced onion, minced garlic, and fresh chiles, frying until the onions are translucent and sweet. Stir in the diced tomatoes, cumin, and Mexican oregano, cooking the mixture down until the tomatoes lose their shape and turn into a thick, intensely savory jam.
- 04
Scrape the entire pork mixture into the cooked beans and simmer to synthesize.
Carefully scrape every piece of meat, vegetable, and drop of vivid red rendered fat directly into the pot of beans and their liquid. Stir gently, bring back to a low simmer, and let it bubble uncovered for 20 to 30 minutes so the starches from the beans bind with the pork fat, thickening the watery broth into a rich stew.
- 05
Finish the broth with acid and fresh herbs, adding the pork rinds just before serving.
Turn off the heat and stir in the fresh chopped cilantro and pickled jalapeño brine, which will instantly brighten the heavy, smoky broth. Right before carrying the pot to your counter to serve alongside a massive platter of meats, push the pieces of pork rind into the broth so they soften while maintaining a fatty chew.
Notes
Swap fresh tomatoes for canned tomatoes with green chiles for a true South Texas adaptation.
To lean fully into the South Texas canon, skip the fresh Roma tomatoes in the guiso and instead dump a 10 oz can of diced tomatoes with green chiles into the skillet, juices and all.
Turn these into drunken beans with a cup of Mexican lager.
Pour 1 cup of beer, a Mexican lager or a Texas staple like Shiner Bock, into the pot when you marry the meat and beans together, letting the alcohol cook off as the broth thickens.
Let the beans mature overnight for exponentially better flavor.
Like a great braise, the gelatin from the pork and starches from the beans will congeal and deepen in the fridge overnight. To reheat, simply place over medium-low heat with a splash of water or chicken stock to loosen them back into a rich soup.