Fasolada
Φασολάδα·(fah-so-LAH-dah)
Yiayia's Pot on the Stove (Survival and Comfort)
Drop a pound of soaked cannellini beans into a battered Dutch oven and leave them to simmer until they begin to collapse—you don't need meat broth to make it profoundly savory. The trick lies in coaxing umami out of fried tomato paste, and the vigorous emulsification of starchy bean water with a heavy glug of raw olive oil at the very end. Scatter torn celery leaves over the top, drag a heel of crusty bread through the broth, and leave the bowl completely clean.
Before you start
Execute the native parboil hack to bypass the traditional overnight soak.
Place the rinsed beans in a heavy-bottomed pot and cover with 3 inches of cold water. Bring to a rapid boil over high heat, reduce to medium, and boil vigorously for 35 to 40 minutes until the beans are semi-soft. Drain and discard the murky liquid to remove indigestible sugars, leaving you with primed, weeknight-ready beans.
Ingredients
- dried Great Northern or Cannellini beans1 lb
- extra virgin olive oil1/2 cup
- yellow onion1 large
- carrot3 med
- celery with leafy inner tops3 stalks
- garlic2 cloves
- tomato paste2 tbsp
- crushed canned tomatoes1 cup
- bay leaf1
- red pepper flakes1/2 tsp
- kosher saltto taste
- black pepperto taste
- boiling water6 cup
Method
- 01
Sauté the aromatics to build the foundational flavor.
Wipe out the pot you used to parboil the beans and place it over medium heat. Add 2 tablespoons of the olive oil. Cook the onion, carrots, and celery (including the leafy tops) for 6 to 8 minutes until softened and translucent, then stir in the garlic for 1 minute until fragrant.
- 02
Caramelize the tomato paste directly on the hot metal.
Clear a small space in the center of the pot and drop in the tomato paste. Using a wooden spoon, rub the paste firmly against the hot bottom of the pot for 1 to 2 minutes. This crucial step cooks out the tinny flavor and unlocks a deep, roasted umami. Stir the caramelized paste into the vegetables.
- 03
Simmer the beans gently with boiling water.
Return the parboiled beans to the pot. Add the crushed tomatoes, bay leaf, and red pepper flakes. Pour in enough boiling water from a kettle to cover the beans by about 2 inches. Using boiling water prevents shocking the beans and halting the cooking process. Bring to a gentle simmer, cover partially, and cook on medium-low for 30 to 40 minutes until the beans are buttery and tender.
- 04
Emulsify the broth into a velvety sauce.
Once the beans are soft, season generously with kosher salt and black pepper. Pour in the remaining 1/3 cup of olive oil and let the soup boil vigorously uncovered for 10 minutes. The violent agitation forces the raw oil to bind with the starches, turning the watery liquid into a thick, glossy chilomeni texture. If it's still too thin, mash a ladleful of beans against the side of the pot and stir them back in.
Notes
For absolute weeknight emergencies, swap dried beans for canned.
Skip the parboil entirely and use three 15-ounce cans of Cannellini beans, rinsed thoroughly. Reduce the boiling water to 4 cups, and simmer for 15 minutes before finishing with the olive oil emulsification. It lacks the deep starchiness of the original, but it saves you an hour.
Serve the soup unapologetically with bread and feta.
This soup is meant to be eaten with a generous splash of raw olive oil over the top, slabs of crusty bread, and a block of feta cheese heavily dusted with dried oregano to cut the richness of the broth.
From Cook Greek in America.