Fakes Soupa
Φακές Σούπα·(fah-KEHS SOO-pah)
Yiayia's Pot on the Stove (Survival and Comfort)
Fakes soupa isn't a fussy weekend project demanding expensive cuts of meat, and it doesn't care if you forgot to plan dinner until five o'clock. This is real pantry food for a cold Tuesday night, simmering in a heavy Dutch oven until the lentils collapse, built entirely on the technique of coaxing the starches out of cheap brown lentils until the broth turns rich and velvety, and hitting it with a heavy splash of red wine vinegar at the absolute last second. Grab a spoon and eat it right away.
Before you start
Pre-boil the lentils to remove impurities.
Place the rinsed lentils in a large pot, cover with a few inches of cold water, and bring to a rapid boil for 5 minutes. The water will turn muddy and foamy; drain the lentils in a strainer, discard the dark liquid, and wipe the pot clean. This grandmotherly trick, known as xafarisma, strips away bitter tannins and indigestible sugars.
Ingredients
- standard brown lentils1 lb
- extra virgin olive oil1/2 cup
- yellow onion1 large
- carrots2 med
- celery stalk1 med
- cloves garlic4 large
- tomato paste2 tbsp
- dried bay leaves2 med
- hot water or low-sodium vegetable broth6 cup
- kosher salt2 tsp
- black pepper1 tsp
- dried Greek oregano1 tsp
- red wine vinegar3 tbsp
Method
- 01
Sweat the aromatics.
Return the clean pot to medium heat with 3 tablespoons of the olive oil, adding the chopped onion, grated carrots, and celery, and cook until softened and translucent, about 5 to 7 minutes.
- 02
Caramelize the tomato paste to unlock its umami.
Add the garlic and stir for 1 minute until fragrant, then clear a small space in the center of the pot, drop in the tomato paste, and let it fry against the bare metal for 60 seconds until it darkens to a deep brick red.
- 03
Simmer the lentils.
Toss the blanched lentils back into the pot until well coated in the vegetable mixture, drop in the bay leaves, pour in the hot water or broth, and bring to a gentle boil before dropping the heat to low, covering the pot, and simmering for 30 minutes.
- 04
Work the magic of xiloma.
Remove the lid, season generously with salt and pepper, pour in the remaining raw olive oil, and turn the heat up slightly to maintain a bubbling simmer while stirring vigorously with a wooden spoon for 5 to 10 minutes to emulsify the starches into a rich, velvety stew.
- 05
Finish with acidity and herbs.
Turn off the heat, remove the bay leaves, and stir in the dried oregano and red wine vinegar to give the earthy broth its essential, tangy backbone.
Notes
Vinegar is non-negotiable.
Don't be tempted to use lemon juice here; red wine vinegar is the canonical acid for Fakes, specifically utilized to help the body absorb the iron from the lentils.
Never salt your lentils early.
Salting the water at the beginning of the cook will toughen the skins of the lentils; always wait until they are tender before seasoning.
Grate your carrots.
Finely grating the carrots rather than chopping them allows them to melt entirely into the soup, contributing their sweetness and aiding in the thickening process.
From Cook Greek in America.