Express Rolled Cebuchon

Ingredients

• boneless skin-on pork belly4 lb
• cane vinegar1 tbsp
• coarse kosher salt3 1/2 tbsp
• black peppercorns1 tbsp
• tamarind soup mix1 tbsp
• lemongrass4 large stalks
• garlic1 large head
• red onion1 med
• scallions5 whole
• dried bay leaves5 whole
• evaporated milk1 tbsp
• soy sauce1 tbsp
• neutral oil1 tbsp

Method

1. 01

   Score the meat and mercilessly prick the skin.

   Lay the pork belly skin-side down and score the flesh in a shallow half-inch cross-hatch. Flip it over and use an awl, meat tenderizer, or clean safety pin to aggressively poke thousands of tiny holes into the skin. Do not pierce through to the red meat, or the juices will steam the skin into rubber.

2. 02

   Vigorously rub the meat with salt, pepper, and tamarind powder.

   Flip the belly meat-side up. Massage 1 1/2 tablespoons of the salt, the freshly cracked black pepper, and the tamarind soup mix deep into the scored crevices for that unmistakable homeland tang.

3. 03

   Layer the aromatics and tie the belly into a tight cylinder.

   Scatter the crushed garlic, diced red onion, and bay leaves evenly across the flesh. Place the bruised lemongrass stalks and whole scallions horizontally across the center. Roll the belly tightly away from you, encapsulating the herbs, and secure it with butcher's twine tied in two-inch intervals.

4. 04

   Treat the skin with vinegar and air dry in the refrigerator overnight.

   Brush the skin entirely with the cane vinegar, then rub with the remaining 2 tablespoons of coarse salt. Place the tied roll on a wire rack over a baking sheet and leave it completely uncovered in the fridge for 12 to 24 hours. This constant circulation of cold, dry air is the ultimate secret to a shattering crust.

5. 05

   Roast the pork slowly over a water bath.

   Preheat the oven to 325°F. Wipe away any excess moisture or heavy salt clumps from the skin. Pour two cups of water into the bottom of a roasting pan to catch the rendering fat and prevent your kitchen from smoking out, then set the wire rack with the pork over it. Roast for 2 to 2.5 hours until the internal temperature hits 160°F.

6. 06

   Glaze the skin and blast it at high heat to blister.

   Remove the pork and crank the oven to 475°F. Whisk the evaporated milk, soy sauce, and oil together, then brush it lightly over the hot skin. Return the belly to the oven for 30 to 45 minutes, watching very closely as the skin violently bubbles and turns a deep mahogany red.

7. 07

   Rest the meat before slicing.

   Let the Cebuchon rest on a cutting board for at least 30 minutes before snipping the twine, otherwise the juices will bleed out and ruin the meat. Slice into thick rounds with a heavy cleaver and serve immediately.

Notes

• The Weeknight Air Fryer Hack.

  If a 24-hour dry brine isn't happening, pressure cook the tied belly with water, soy sauce, garlic, and bay leaves for 30 minutes. Pat the skin aggressively dry, brush with a drop of vinegar and oil, and air fry at 400°F for 30 to 40 minutes until blistered.

• Ditch the liver sauce for spiced vinegar sawsawan.

  Cebuano lechon is infused from the inside out; heavy liver sauces mask the delicate lemongrass. Serve this with a simple dip of 1/2 cup cane vinegar, 2 tablespoons soy sauce, crushed native garlic, diced red onions, and chopped Thai bird's eye chilies.

• Sourcing the right pork.

  You must ask the butcher for a whole, boneless pork belly with the skin left on. A skinless belly entirely defeats the architectural purpose of this dish.