Express Bicol Express
Sinilihan·(si-ni-li-han)
The Weeknight Ulam (Fast, Unapologetic Dinners)
Bicol Express is unapologetic—aggressively spicy, profoundly rich, and deeply funky. Originating as a tug-of-war between a legendary 1970s Manila restaurant and the indigenous kitchens of the Bicol peninsula (where it is known as Sinilihan), the soul of the dish remains unchanged. For first-generation kids raised in the American suburbs, the pungent scent of sautéing shrimp paste and coconut milk meant Lola was cooking, and you needed to load up the rice cooker. This weeknight adaptation cuts the pork small and sears it hard to render the fat quickly, bypassing the traditional hours-long braise without losing an ounce of authenticity. The only rule you cannot break is nagmamantika: you must simmer the coconut cream until it "breaks," letting the chili-infused oil separate from the sauce. In French cooking, a broken sauce is a mistake. In the Filipino kitchen, it is the absolute peak of flavor.
Before you start
Separate the coconut milk properly.
Do not shake the can of coconut milk before opening. Carefully scoop the thick, solid cream (kakang gata) from the top into a small bowl to save for the final step. The remaining watery milk (pangalawang piga) is your braising liquid.
Ingredients
- pork belly1 lb
- canola oil1 tbsp
- garlic4 clove
- red or yellow onion1 med
- fresh ginger1 med piece
- Filipino shrimp paste3 tbsp
- canned coconut milk13.5 oz
- Thai bird's eye chilies8 small
- Serrano peppers4 med
- black pepper1/2 tsp
- fish sauce1 tbsp
Method
- 01
Sear the pork to render the fat.
Place a wide, heavy-bottomed skillet or wok over medium-high heat. Add the diced pork belly in a single layer, using the canola oil only if the pan is completely dry and the meat sticks. Let it sear undisturbed for 3 to 4 minutes until golden brown, then toss until the pork releases its natural fat and the edges crisp up.
- 02
Sauté the aromatics.
Push the pork to the edges of the pan so the rendered fat pools in the center. Lower the heat to medium and add the onion, garlic, and ginger to the hot fat. Sauté for about 2 minutes until translucent and highly aromatic, letting the ginger do its work to clean up the heavy pork flavor.
- 03
Caramelize the funk.
Stir the shrimp paste directly into the hot fat in the center of the pan. Let it fry for 1 to 2 minutes—the harsh, raw fermented smell will aggressively hit the air before mellowing into a deep, caramelized umami. Toss the pork and aromatics together until every piece is coated.
- 04
Execute the short braise.
Pour the reserved thin, watery portion of the coconut milk into the pan, scraping up any browned bits from the bottom. Bring the liquid to a gentle simmer, cover the pan, and turn the heat to medium-low. Braise for 20 to 25 minutes, at which point the small cubes of pork will be perfectly tender.
- 05
Demand the nagmamantika.
Remove the lid and pour in the reserved thick coconut cream, chopped Thai chilies, Serrano peppers, and black pepper. Increase the heat slightly to maintain a rolling simmer and cook for 10 to 15 minutes, stirring occasionally. Watch as the cream reduces, thickens, and eventually "breaks," leaving clear, chili-tinted oil separated from the curd-like coconut solids.
- 06
Season and serve immediately.
Once the oil has separated and the sauce clings heavily to the pork, taste the dish. Add a splash of fish sauce only if it needs a salty lift. Serve blisteringly hot alongside an irresponsibly large mound of steamed white rice.
Notes
Do not skip the ginger.
In Filipino cooking, ginger is crucial for neutralizing the 'lansa'—the gamey, funky odor of heavy fats and seafood. It makes the rich stew taste surprisingly clean.
From Cook Filipino in America.