Estofado de Pollo con Almendras y Aceitunas
(es-toh-FAH-doh de POH-yoh kohn ahl-MEN-drahs ee ah-sey-TOO-nahs)
El Lenguaje del Mole (The Language of Moles)
Oaxaca is the land of seven moles, but forget the heavy, chocolate-laced versions you think you know. This is an elegant, weeknight-friendly marriage of Old and New World flavors, built on a brilliant alchemy of sweet caramelized plantains, toasted almonds, and tart tomatillos. The grandmother’s secret lies at the finish: a briny, acidic punch of green olives, capers, and pickled jalapeños that slices right through the rich sauce. It requires no obscure dried chiles, just standard supermarket ingredients treated with respect and the absolute non-negotiable step of frying the final paste until it blooms.
Ingredients
- bone-in skinless chicken thighs2 lb
- low-sodium chicken broth4 cup
- white onion1/4 med
- garlic2 small clove
- salt1 tsp
- Roma tomatoes1 lb
- tomatillos1/2 lb
- white onion1/2 med
- garlic4 small clove
- vegetable oil1/4 cup
- very ripe plantain1 large
- brioche or challah bread1 large slice
- blanched slivered almonds1/2 cup
- sesame seeds1/4 cup
- dark raisins1/3 cup
- Mexican cinnamon stick1 small piece
- whole cloves3
- whole allspice berries5
- dried Mexican oregano1 tsp
- dried thyme1/2 tsp
- pitted green Manzanilla olives1/2 cup
- capers1 tbsp
- whole pickled jalapeños3
- sugar1 pinch
Method
- 01
Poach the chicken to yield the essential broth.
In a large pot, combine the chicken thighs, broth, intact quarter onion, smashed garlic cloves, and a teaspoon of salt. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a gentle simmer, cover, and cook for 25 to 30 minutes until tender. Transfer the chicken to a plate to rest, and strain and reserve the resulting broth.
- 02
Broil the tomatoes, tomatillos, chopped onion, and remaining garlic.
Place them on a foil-lined baking sheet under a high broiler for 8 to 12 minutes until soft, blistered, and slightly charred at the edges, then set aside.
- 03
Fry the thickeners and aromatics sequentially in oil to build the flavor base.
Heat a quarter cup of vegetable oil in a deep skillet over medium-low heat. Fry the plantain slices until deeply caramelized, remove them with a slotted spoon to a large bowl, then fry the bread until crispy. Follow with the almonds and sesame seeds until nutty and golden, and finally fry the raisins just until they puff, removing each to the bowl as it finishes.
- 04
Toast and grind the spices.
In a dry pan over low heat, toast the cinnamon, cloves, allspice, oregano, and thyme for about 30 seconds just until fragrant, then transfer to a spice grinder or mortar and pestle to grind into a fine powder.
- 05
Blend the mole into a smooth paste.
In a high-powered blender, purée the roasted vegetables and their juices until completely smooth. Add the bowl of fried ingredients, ground spices, and one cup of the reserved chicken broth, blending on high until you achieve a silky paste.
- 06
Fry the sauce to bloom the flavors and cook out the raw ingredients.
Wipe out the large skillet, heat a tablespoon of fresh oil over medium-high heat, and carefully pour in the blended mole paste. Stir constantly for 3 to 5 minutes as the mixture splatters, darkens slightly, and thickens.
- 07
Simmer the mole and add the briny finish.
Slowly whisk in two more cups of the reserved chicken broth to thin the paste into a velvety sauce, lower the heat to a simmer, and season with salt and a pinch of sugar to taste. Nestle the cooked chicken back in, stir in the green olives, capers, pickled jalapeños, and the jalapeño vinegar, and cover to let simmer for 5 to 10 minutes before serving.
From Cook Oaxacan in America.