Estofado de Manchamanteles con Cerdo
(es-toh-fah-doh de mahn-chah-mahn-teh-les kon ser-doh)
El Arte de los Moles: Demystifying the Sauces
Manchamanteles translates to 'tablecloth stainer.' Once you see the violent, beautiful red of this sauce, you understand. This isn't the brooding, multi-day mole negro. It is a bright, unapologetic stew loaded with caramelized plantains and pineapple, born in colonial convents but surviving because it is pure comfort. We make this work for a Tuesday night without losing its soul by using quick-cooking pork loin and pan-frying the fruits separately so they keep their bite. The real secret? Frying the chili puree in hot pork fat. Do not fear the lard. It is the unbroken link to the kitchens of Oaxaca.
Before you start
Char the Roma tomatoes in advance.
Blister them in a dry skillet or under the broiler until blackened in spots so they are ready to drop directly into the blender.
Ingredients
- dried ancho chiles6
- dried guajillo chiles2
- white onion1/2 large
- garlic cloves4 large
- roma tomatoes2 med
- raw almonds1/4 cup
- day-old white bread1 slice
- ground mexican cinnamon1/2 tsp
- whole cloves3
- whole black peppercorns4
- dried mexican oregano1/2 tsp
- apple cider vinegar1 tbsp
- pork lard3 tbsp
- boneless pork loin1 1/2 lb
- very ripe plantain1 large
- fresh pineapple1 1/2 cup
- granny smith apple1 small
- low-sodium chicken broth3 cup
- kosher salt1 tbsp
Method
- 01
Toast the dried chiles in a dry, heavy skillet over medium heat for fifteen seconds per side until fragrant.
Press them flat with a spatula, but do not let them smoke or the sauce will turn bitter. Transfer to a bowl, cover with boiling water, and soak for fifteen minutes until soft.
- 02
Heat one tablespoon of the lard in a heavy pot over medium-high heat and sear the salted pork cubes until browned.
You aren't cooking the pork through, just building a crust. Remove the meat to a plate and leave the rendered fat in the pot.
- 03
Toast the almonds, cloves, and peppercorns in the skillet until fragrant, then transfer to a blender.
Add the onion and garlic to the skillet to char slightly, then add them to the blender with the tomatoes, torn bread, cinnamon, oregano, vinegar, drained chiles, and one cup of chicken broth. Blend on high until completely smooth.
- 04
Return the large pot with the pork fat to medium heat, adding another tablespoon of lard if dry, and pour in the chili puree.
It will violently sputter and pop. Stir constantly for five to seven minutes until the sauce deepens to a dark brick red and the oil begins to separate. This is the non-negotiable step that cooks out the raw chili flavor and triggers the Maillard reaction.
- 05
Pour the remaining two cups of chicken broth into the fried paste, returning the pork and diced apple to the pot.
Bring to a gentle simmer, cover partially, and let cook for fifteen to twenty minutes until the pork is tender.
- 06
In a separate non-stick skillet, heat the final tablespoon of lard over medium heat and fry the plantain coins until deeply golden.
Cook about three minutes per side, then remove to a plate. Briefly sear the pineapple chunks in the same skillet to bring out their natural sugars.
- 07
Gently fold the caramelized plantains and pineapple into the simmering mole.
Let it cook together for just three minutes so the fruit absorbs the sauce but retains its structural integrity. Serve immediately with warm corn tortillas to mop up the tablecloth-staining sauce.
Notes
Do not substitute the pork lard.
Manteca provides the savory baseline that bridges the sweet fruit and earthy chiles. Vegetable oils introduce competing flavors and lack the essential mouthfeel.
Buy plantains with mostly black skin.
Green or yellow plantains are too starchy and will taste like potatoes. The black skin guarantees the starches have converted to sugar, which is crucial for caramelizing before they hit the stew.
From Cook Oaxacan in America.