Esquites Callejeros en Sartén
(es-KEE-tes kah-yeh-HEH-ros en sar-TEN)
Antojitos & La Cena – Late-Night Bites and Street Food at Home
Midnight at the plaza, styrofoam cups overflow with hot broth, crumbled cotija, chaos, a far cry from the cold, dry barbecue side dish America turned esquites into. Grab a heavy cast-iron skillet, let the kernels pop and blister, and remember the char on the corn matters, but the true secret is the broth. By blistering the kernels in butter and then letting them gently simmer with chicken stock and epazote, you extract a savory, glossy glaze that coats every bite. Epazote anchors the dish, bringing a sharp, medicinal pungency akin to mint and petroleum. Buy it fresh if you can, but a quick trick of cilantro and Mexican oregano will carry you home on a busy Tuesday night. Hit the pan with a heavy squeeze of lime, stir it once, and hand out the spoons.
Before you start
If using frozen corn, ensure it is completely thawed and drained of excess water.
Frozen corn is a brilliant and totally acceptable weeknight shortcut, but the excess moisture will cause it to steam. Patting it dry allows the kernels to achieve a proper, blistering char in the hot butter.
Ingredients
- unsalted butter2 tbsp
- neutral oil1 tbsp
- white onion1/2 med
- garlic2 small clove
- serrano pepper2 med
- corn kernels4 cup
- chicken broth1/2 cup
- fresh epazote1 large sprig
- kosher salt1/2 tsp
- mayonnaise1/3 cup
- Queso Cotija1/2 cup
- lime2 med
- Tajín1 tbsp
Method
- 01
Melt the butter and oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat until foaming.
Add the diced white onion, minced garlic, and serrano pepper, sautéing continuously for about 2 to 3 minutes until the onions become soft and translucent.
- 02
Add the corn kernels and toss to coat in the aromatic butter, then let them sit undisturbed for 2 minutes.
You want the corn to develop a golden-brown char. Toss it once and let it sit for another 2 minutes until it looks like it just came off a hot street cart comal.
- 03
Lower the heat to medium, pour in the chicken broth, and add the sprig of epazote and salt.
Cover the skillet tightly and let it simmer for 5 to 8 minutes. This is the grandmother's secret: the steam tenderizes the corn while the broth and epazote infuse it with an earthy, savory flavor.
- 04
Remove the lid and let the remaining liquid reduce into a glossy glaze.
Cook uncovered for another 2 to 3 minutes until the broth just barely coats the bottom of the pan, then remove and discard the fresh epazote.
- 05
Spoon the hot corn into individual cups, making sure to grab a little of the savory broth from the bottom of the pan.
Top each serving immediately with a generous dollop of mayonnaise, a heavy sprinkle of Cotija cheese, a squeeze of fresh lime juice, and a dusting of Tajín.
Notes
Epazote is the non-negotiable soul of true esquites, but you can fake it on a weeknight.
If you absolutely cannot find fresh or dried epazote at your local Latin market, substitute 2 tablespoons of chopped fresh cilantro and a 1/2 teaspoon of dried Mexican oregano to mimic its earthy, citrusy punch.
From Cook Mexican in America.