Esquites Callejeros al Epazote con Chapulines
Esquites Callejeros al Epazote con Chapulines·(es-KEE-tes kah-yeh-HEH-ros ahl eh-pah-SOH-teh kohn chah-poo-LEE-nes)
Antojitos de la Noche (Bringing the Street Market Home)
Past sundown in the plaza, the air hangs thick with woodsmoke, the scrape of a metal ladle, and the distinct, petroleum-meets-mint smell of wilted epazote hitting a hot pan. This is esquites, scooped into a Styrofoam cup, crowned with the earthy, salty, citrusy crunch of toasted chapulines. The real trick for the American kitchen isn't sourcing the bugs, but fixing our watery sweet corn. Get a cast-iron skillet smoking hot, pan-roast it in butter to mimic the chewy, starchy field corn of the homeland, and serve it straight out of the pan.
Ingredients
- fresh corn kernels4 cup
- unsalted butter2 tbsp
- neutral oil1 tbsp
- white onion1/2 cup
- garlic2 med clove
- dried chiles de árbol2 small
- fresh epazote leaves1/3 cup
- chicken broth1/2 cup
- kosher saltto taste
- mayonnaise1/2 cup
- Queso Cotija1 cup
- limes2 med
- chile piquín or Tajínto taste
- toasted chapulines1/2 cup
Method
- 01
Build the flavor base in a heavy skillet.
Place a large cast-iron skillet or wide Dutch oven over medium-high heat with the butter and oil. Once foaming, add the diced onion and sauté for about 3 minutes until soft, then stir in the minced garlic and snipped chiles de árbol for 30 seconds to wake up their smoky heat.
- 02
Blister the corn to concentrate its starches.
Add the corn kernels, toss to coat in the spicy fat, and spread them out in an even layer. Let them sit undisturbed for 2 to 3 minutes to toast the bottoms, evaporating the excess water common in American sweet corn. Stir and repeat for another 5 to 7 minutes until golden and fragrant.
- 03
Deglaze with broth and steam the epazote.
Lower the heat to medium, pour in the chicken broth, and add the fresh epazote. Scrape up any browned bits from the bottom and let the liquid simmer for 4 to 5 minutes until it forms a glossy, slightly thickened glaze.
- 04
Portion the esquites into cups.
Remove the skillet from the heat. Spoon the hot corn mixture into small cups or mugs, filling them about three-quarters of the way to the top.
- 05
Crown with the classic street toppings.
Add a dollop of mayonnaise to each cup, squeeze a lime wedge over the top, and add a thick layer of crumbled Cotija and a dusting of chili powder. Finish with a heaping tablespoon of chapulines, instructing your guests to mix it all into a rich, savory cream.
Notes
Sourcing the grasshoppers.
USDA-approved chapulines are easily found online from specialty purveyors or at local Hispanic markets near the dried chiles. They keep for months in the pantry and are essential for that true Oaxacan terroir.
The golden rule of epazote.
Do not substitute cilantro. Epazote is the soul of this dish. If you absolutely cannot find it fresh or dried, a pinch of oregano and mint is a better approximation, but making the trip to the Latin market is highly recommended.
From Cook Oaxacan in America.