Espárragos Blancos de Navarra con Mayonesa de Estragón
Espárragos Blancos de Navarra con Mayonesa de Estragón·(es-PAH-rah-gohs BLAHN-kohs de nah-VAH-rah kohn my-oh-NEH-sah de es-trah-GOHN)
Chapter 2: Cold Tapas
In America, we are conditioned to view canned vegetables as an apocalyptic last resort. In Spain, conservas are an art form, and the undisputed king of the tin is the fat, ivory Espárrago Blanco de Navarra. Grown entirely underground to stave off the sun, these spears are harvested by hand and preserved at peak, fiberless tenderness. To replicate the rhythm of a great American tapas bar, we aren't just eating them cold out of the jar. We dry them mercilessly and hit them with roaring heat for two minutes, blistering the exterior to draw out a deep, smoky earthiness. Placed over a swoosh of cold, herbaceous tarragon mayonnaise, it is a masterclass in high-impact temperature contrast that will make your guests think they are sitting right at the chef's counter.
Before you start
The tarragon mayonnaise can be made up to three days in advance.
Store it in an airtight container in the refrigerator. The flavors will meld and intensify as it sits.
Drain and dry the asparagus up to four hours before your party.
Leave the spears sitting uncovered on paper towels in the fridge to air-dry further. This guarantees the moisture is gone, making your final high-heat finish completely foolproof.
Ingredients
- egg1 large
- fresh lemon juice1 tbsp
- sherry vinegar1 tsp
- Dijon mustard1 tsp
- neutral oil1/2 cup
- premium Spanish extra virgin olive oil1/4 cup
- fresh tarragon leaves2 tbsp
- kosher salt1/4 tsp
- Espárragos Blancos de Navarra14 oz
- extra virgin olive oil1 tbsp
- flaky sea salt1/2 tsp
- black pepper1/4 tsp
- fresh tarragon sprigs1 small
Method
- 01
Combine the egg, lemon juice, sherry vinegar, mustard, and kosher salt in a tall, narrow jar.
Pour both the neutral and olive oils directly on top, drop an immersion blender to the very bottom, and blitz without moving it until a thick white emulsion creeps up the sides. Slowly raise the blender to incorporate the rest of the oil, then fold in the chopped tarragon by hand.
- 02
Carefully remove the fragile asparagus spears from their liquid and dry them mercilessly.
Lay them on a double layer of paper towels and pat the tops dry. Moisture control is everything here; if they hit a hot pan wet, they won't sear, they will simply spit violently and turn to mush.
- 03
Heat a heavy cast-iron skillet or flat griddle until screaming hot, then add the oil-brushed spears.
Do not put oil directly in the pan. Instead, brush the dried spears lightly with the olive oil. Let them sear undisturbed for 60 to 90 seconds per side until a deep, blistered crust forms. They are already fully cooked; you are simply caramelizing the exterior.
- 04
Swoosh a generous spoonful of the cold tarragon mayonnaise across a platter and arrange the blistered asparagus directly on top.
Hit the hot spears with flaky sea salt, cracked black pepper, and extra tarragon leaves, and serve immediately.
Notes
You must source imported Espárragos Blancos de Navarra with an IGP label.
Do not attempt this with standard green asparagus or cheap jarred white asparagus from other regions. The recipe relies entirely on the supreme, fiberless tenderness of the true Navarran spear.
Do not throw away the asparagus water from the tin.
This leftover liquid is profoundly flavorful. Use it to mount a vinaigrette or inject an earthy backbone into the broth of a vegetable paella.