Espárragos Blancos de Navarra con Mayonesa de Estragón
Espárragos Blancos de Navarra con Mayonesa de Estragón
Chapter 2: Cold Tapas
The most prized asparagus in Spain isn't green. In America, canned vegetables are a compromise; in Spain, conservas capture produce at the exact moment of peak harvest, yielding the Espárrago Blanco de Navarra—thick white spears of Navarra grown entirely underground to remain ivory-white, devoid of stringy fiber, and preserved perfectly in a heavy glass jar. By drying the cooked spears thoroughly and hitting them with intense, roaring heat for two minutes, you get a smoky, blistered crust that gives way to a meltingly tender center; drain the excess moisture, plate the spears, and pass a whisked bowl of tarragon mayonnaise.
Before you start
Make the mayonnaise ahead of time.
The tarragon mayonnaise can be prepared and kept in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.
Dry the asparagus completely before searing.
Moisture control is the secret to the plancha technique. Up to 4 hours before your party, carefully lay the fragile spears on a double layer of paper towels. Pat the tops dry and leave them uncovered in the fridge to ensure they sear instead of steam in the pan.
Ingredients
- egg1 large
- fresh lemon juice1 tbsp
- sherry vinegar1 tsp
- Dijon mustard1 tsp
- neutral oil1/2 cup
- Spanish extra virgin olive oil1/4 cup
- fresh tarragon leaves2 tbsp
- kosher salt1/4 tsp
- Espárragos Blancos de Navarra13 oz
- extra virgin olive oil1 tbsp
- flaky sea salt1 pinch
- black pepper1 pinch
- fresh tarragon sprigs1 small
Method
- 01
Build the mayonnaise using an immersion blender.
In a tall, narrow jar, combine the egg, lemon juice, sherry vinegar, mustard, and kosher salt, then pour both oils directly on top. Place the blender head at the absolute bottom, turn it on high, and hold it perfectly still for ten seconds until a thick emulsion forms, then slowly raise it to incorporate the remaining oil. Fold in the chopped tarragon.
- 02
Sear the asparagus in a screaming-hot pan.
Place a heavy cast-iron skillet or flat griddle over medium-high heat until smoking. Brush the thoroughly dried spears with olive oil and place them in the dry pan. Let them sear undisturbed for 60 to 90 seconds until a golden-brown crust forms, then flip and sear the other side for another 60 seconds.
- 03
Plate and serve immediately.
Swoosh a large spoonful of the cold tarragon mayonnaise across the bottom of a serving platter. Arrange the hot, blistered asparagus on top, finishing with a generous pinch of flaky sea salt, black pepper, and whole tarragon leaves.
Notes
Source authentic Espárragos Blancos de Navarra IGP.
Do not attempt this with standard green asparagus or inferior jarred white asparagus from other regions, which can be woody and acidic. The recipe relies entirely on the supreme tenderness of the Navarran spear.
Save the liquid from the tin.
A hallmark of Spanish cooking is zero waste. The asparagus water is profoundly flavorful; use it as a base to mount a vinaigrette or inject an earthy backbone into paella broth.