Ervilhas com Ovos Escalfados
(ehr-VEEL-yahs kohn OH-voos ehsh-kahl-FAH-doos)
The Soul of the Kitchen: O Refogado & A Despensa
You drag a wooden spoon through the pan. You open a bag of supermarket frozen peas. You watch the deep red slick of chouriço rendering into olive oil, mingling with sweet peas and melting onions. The stew simmers until the broth turns thick and green. The trick is giving the sausage ten minutes over low heat. You must let the smoked meat release its paprika-stained fat before you build the stew. Serve it straight from the skillet with a hunk of papo seco to mop up the chouriço fat and those perfectly runny, yolk-enriched juices.
Ingredients
- extra virgin olive oil2 tbsp
- Portuguese chouriço or Spanish dry-cured chorizo8 oz
- thick-cut smoked bacon2 slices
- yellow onion1 large
- garlic4 med cloves
- dried bay leaf1 med
- dry white wine1/3 cup
- crushed canned tomatoes1/2 cup
- tomato paste2 tbsp
- water or low-sodium chicken broth1 cup
- frozen sweet peas1 lb
- saltto taste
- black pepperto taste
- eggs4 large
- fresh cilantro1/4 cup
- crusty rustic bread1 med loaf
Method
- 01
Render the smoky pork fat slowly.
Place a large skillet or braiser over medium heat with the olive oil, add the chouriço and bacon, and sauté for 4 to 5 minutes until the meats crisp and release their bright red, paprika-infused fat.
- 02
Build the aromatic base, known as o refogado.
Lower the heat slightly, add the diced onion and bay leaf to the rendered fat, and sauté for 5 minutes until translucent before stirring in the minced garlic for 1 minute.
- 03
Caramelize the tomato paste.
Stir in the crushed tomatoes and tomato paste, cooking the mixture down for 4 to 5 minutes until it thickens into a rich, dark red paste to eliminate any raw tomato flavor.
- 04
Deglaze and build the stew.
Pour in the white wine, scrape up any browned bits from the bottom of the pan, and let the alcohol evaporate for 2 minutes before adding the frozen peas, broth, salt, and pepper.
- 05
Simmer the peas until tender.
Bring the liquid to a gentle simmer, cover the pan with the lid slightly ajar, and let it cook for 10 to 15 minutes until the sauce thickens into a stew-like consistency.
- 06
Prepare the wells for the eggs.
Remove the lid, use the back of a spoon to make four distinct indentations in the peas, crack an egg directly into each well, and season the tops with salt and pepper.
- 07
Poach the eggs in the savory broth.
Cover the skillet tightly, reduce the heat to medium-low, and let the eggs steam undisturbed for exactly 3 to 5 minutes until the whites are set but the yolks remain entirely liquid.
- 08
Garnish and serve immediately.
Pull the pan off the heat immediately so the eggs don't overcook in the residual heat, discard the bay leaf, scatter with fresh cilantro, and serve straight from the skillet alongside plenty of crusty bread.
Notes
Respect the rendering process.
The signature flavor of this dish comes entirely from the paprika-stained oil released by the chouriço; do not rush the very first step.
Select the right sausage.
Portuguese chouriço is fully cured and heavily smoked. If you can't find it, Spanish dry-cured chorizo or Portuguese linguiça are perfect stand-ins, but never use raw, crumbly Mexican chorizo.
Poach directly in the stew.
Never poach the eggs in a separate pot of water with vinegar; they need to absorb the smoky, savory flavors of the tomato and pea broth as they cook.
Don't thaw the peas.
Frozen peas are ideal here. Just toss them into the skillet straight from the freezer to keep them sweet and structurally sound.