Ensaladita de Pulpo con Alubias Blancas
Ensaladita de Pulpo con Alubias Blancas·(en-sah-lah-dee-tah de pool-po kon ah-loo-bee-ahs blahn-kahs)
Chapter 1: Foundations & the Bar Snacks
The great American tapas institutions know the secret to this dish lies in contrast. It is the ultimate expression of Spanish culinary philosophy: source exceptional ingredients, apply exact technique, and get out of the way. While home kitchens often serve this salad cold, the tapas bar demands the violence of a ripping-hot cast-iron pan. Tender, slow-cooked tentacles are slammed onto the heat moments before serving, yielding a smoky, charred crust that gives way to a buttery center. It all rests on a bed of creamy white beans heavy with sherry vinegar and oak-smoked paprika. Execute the slow braise the day before; when the dining room is loud and the wine is flowing, step away for exactly three minutes to sear, slice, and serve.
Before you start
Scare the octopus.
One or two days before serving, bring a large pot of unsalted water to a rolling boil with the onion halves and bay leaves. Using tongs, hold the octopus by its head, submerge the tentacles in the boiling water for three seconds, and pull it out completely. Repeat this two more times to shock and set the delicate outer skin so it doesn't tear during the long cook.
Simmer the octopus.
After the third dip, drop the entire octopus into the pot, reduce the heat to a gentle simmer, cover, and cook for 40 to 45 minutes.
Rest the octopus off the heat.
Turn off the stove but do not remove the octopus; let it sit in the hot cooking water for 20 minutes so the tightened muscle fibers relax and reabsorb moisture. A skewer inserted into the thickest part of the tentacle should meet zero resistance.
Chill and portion.
Remove the octopus, let it cool to room temperature, cut off the tentacles, and refrigerate them in an airtight container until you are ready to sear them for your guests.
Ingredients
- whole octopus2 lb
- yellow onion1 med
- bay leaves2 small
- premium white beans15 oz
- red onion1/4 cup
- roasted red peppers1/4 cup
- fresh parsley2 tbsp
- Spanish extra virgin olive oil1/3 cup
- sherry vinegar2 tbsp
- garlic1 med clove
- sweet pimentón de la Vera1 tsp
- spicy pimentón de la Vera1/4 tsp
- kosher salt1/2 tsp
- black pepper1/4 tsp
Method
- 01
Mix the vinaigrette and beans.
Whisk the olive oil, sherry vinegar, garlic, both sweet and spicy pimentón, salt, and pepper in a large mixing bowl, then gently fold in the rinsed beans, red onion, roasted peppers, and parsley.
- 02
Marinate the beans.
Let the bean mixture sit at room temperature for at least an hour before serving so the starches absorb the smoky, acidic dressing.
- 03
Sear the tentacles.
Heat a cast-iron skillet over medium-high until smoking hot, pat the chilled octopus tentacles completely dry with paper towels, toss them lightly in a drizzle of oil, and lay them in the dry pan to sear undisturbed for two minutes per side until a dark, caramelized crust forms.
- 04
Slice and plate.
Remove the tentacles to a cutting board, slice them on a bias into bite-sized pieces, arrange them over the marinated white beans on a shallow platter, and finish with a final drizzle of olive oil, a pinch of flaky sea salt, and a dusting of pimentón.
Notes
Never substitute the Spanish pantry staples.
The soul of this dish relies entirely on Pimentón de la Vera, which is smoked over oak fires for weeks, and Vinagre de Jerez, a complex sherry vinegar. Supermarket paprika is just red dust by comparison, and other vinegars will destroy the balance.
Buy frozen octopus or freeze it yourself.
Commercial freezing is the most effective way to mechanically sever the tough collagen and muscle fibers of a cephalopod, ensuring a tender braise. If you buy fresh octopus, freeze it for at least 48 hours before cooking.