Ennai Kathirikai Kuzhambu

Ennai Kathirikai Kuzhambu

எண்ணெய் கத்திரிக்காய் குழம்பு·(en-nai ka-thi-ri-kai ku-zham-bu)

Weeknight Dinners: 30-Minute Sambar and Quick Kuzhambu

To pull off this thirty-minute dinner, you keep the stems on the baby purple eggplants so they don't disintegrate, dropping them straight into a heavy skillet and letting the heat work until the skins blister. The foundation is a raw masala paste, blasted in unrefined gingelly oil to instantly bloom the spices, and you just simmer the pan patiently until that nutty oil visibly separates from the tangy tamarind water. Do not rush the split, and get the rice ready.

Before you start

  • Source the right oil and tamarind.

    Authentic flavor relies entirely on unrefined Indian sesame oil (gingelly oil or nallennai)—do not use toasted Asian sesame oil. Tamarind concentrate dissolved in water replicates the tangy backbone of the dish perfectly for a weeknight without the hassle of soaking and straining pods.

Ingredients

  • baby Italian or Thai eggplants8
  • shallots1/2 cup
  • garlic4 small clove
  • Roma tomato1 med
  • unsweetened shredded coconut1/4 cup
  • coriander powder1 tbsp
  • Kashmiri chili powder1 tsp
  • cumin powder1/2 tsp
  • turmeric powder1/2 tsp
  • salt1/2 tsp
  • Indian gingelly oil4 tbsp
  • tamarind concentrate1 tbsp
  • water1 1/2 cup
  • mustard seeds1/2 tsp
  • fenugreek seeds1/4 tsp
  • fresh curry leaves1 sprig
  • dark brown sugar1/4 tsp

Method

  1. 01

    Score the eggplants into quadrants without removing the stems.

    Place an eggplant on your cutting board, stem facing away. Make a vertical slit down the middle, stopping half an inch before the stem, then rotate 90 degrees and make another slit to create an X shape. The stem anchors the eggplant and keeps it intact while it stews.

  2. 02

    Blend the wet masala paste.

    In a blender or food processor, combine the shallots, garlic, tomato, coconut, coriander, chili powder, cumin, turmeric, and salt. Pulse until it forms a thick, slightly coarse paste.

  3. 03

    Stuff the eggplants with the wet paste.

    Gently pry open the slits of each eggplant and push about a teaspoon of the paste deep into the center. Press closed and wipe away any excess, saving all remaining paste in the blender for the gravy.

  4. 04

    Sear the eggplants in oil until deeply blistered.

    Heat 3 tablespoons of the gingelly oil in a wide, heavy-bottomed skillet over medium-high heat. Fry the eggplants in a single layer, turning occasionally, until the skins turn a dull brownish-purple and the exposed paste smells deeply caramelized, about 5 to 7 minutes. Transfer the eggplants to a plate.

  5. 05

    Temper the spices and build the tamarind gravy.

    Reduce the heat to medium and add the final tablespoon of oil to the same pan. Stir in the mustard and fenugreek seeds, followed immediately by the curry leaves. Once they crackle, pour in the leftover blended paste and sauté for 2 minutes to cook out the raw onion smell, then stir in the tamarind concentrate dissolved in the warm water along with the brown sugar.

  6. 06

    Simmer until the oil completely separates from the sauce.

    Nestle the blistered eggplants back into the simmering gravy, turn the heat to medium-low, cover, and simmer for 10 to 12 minutes. You are looking for a state called ennai pirindhu varum—when the opaque sauce shrinks down and a clear, glossy layer of reddish oil floats to the edges of the pan.

Notes

  • Better the next day.

    Serve piping hot over a mound of steamed basmati or sona masoori rice to soak up the gravy. Like many acidic stews, the eggplants marinate beautifully in the fridge, making leftovers taste incredible.

From Cook South Indian in America.

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