Enfrijoladas de la Abuela con Hoja de Aguacate
Enfrijoladas de la Abuela con Hoja de Aguacate·(en-free-ho-LAH-das)
Mañanas en la Cocina: Breakfasts & Morning Rhythms
In Oaxaca, a plate of enfrijoladas means you are home, and you are loved. While tourists chase complex, twenty-ingredient moles, this humble morning staple fuels the working day. It relies on a simple thermodynamic trick to elevate pantry staples: toasting the avocado leaf to wake up its intoxicating anise aroma, and searing the blended bean purée in hot fat until it transforms into a rich, velvety sauce. It is a frugal, deeply comforting dish, adapted here with canned beans for a busy Tuesday night without sacrificing an ounce of its ancestral soul.
Ingredients
- canned whole black beans30 oz
- dried chile de árbol1 med
- dried Mexican avocado leaves2 med
- white onion1/2 small
- garlic2 med clove
- low-sodium chicken broth1/2 cup
- vegetable oil3 tbsp
- sea salt1/2 tsp
- corn tortillas12 med
- vegetable oil1/3 cup
- queso fresco1/2 cup
- Mexican crema1/2 cup
- white onion1/4 med
- fresh flat-leaf parsley1/4 cup
Method
- 01
Awaken the aromatics on a dry skillet.
Heat a dry, heavy skillet over medium heat. Toast the chile de árbol and avocado leaves, pressing down lightly with a spatula, until the chile puffs and the leaves release a distinct anise scent, about 15 to 30 seconds. Remove from the heat immediately so they do not burn.
- 02
Infuse the beans quickly.
In a medium saucepan, heat 1 tablespoon of oil over medium heat. Sauté the chopped onion and smashed garlic until translucent and browned at the edges. Pour in the undrained black beans, chicken broth, toasted chile, and avocado leaves. Bring to a gentle simmer, cover, and cook for 10 minutes to mimic an all-day simmer.
- 03
Blend the sauce into a velvet purée.
Remove the saucepan from the heat. Crucially, fish out the avocado leaves and discard them to avoid a gritty texture. Transfer the remaining bean mixture to a blender and process on high until completely smooth. The texture should resemble heavy cream; add a splash of warm water or broth if it is too thick.
- 04
Sear the purée in hot fat.
Wipe the saucepan clean or use a deep skillet. Heat the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil over medium-high heat until nearly smoking. Carefully pour in the blended bean purée—stand back, as it will sputter aggressively. Reduce the heat to medium-low, season generously with sea salt, and let the sauce bubble and reduce for 10 minutes.
- 05
Soft-fry the tortillas to create a structural barrier.
In a separate skillet, heat 1/3 cup of oil over medium-high. Using metal tongs, slide a corn tortilla into the hot oil for just 5 to 10 seconds per side. It should blister slightly but remain soft and pliable, not crispy. Briefly drain on a paper towel-lined plate and repeat with the remaining tortillas.
- 06
Bathe the tortillas and assemble the plate.
Working quickly while everything is hot, submerge each fried tortilla entirely into the simmering bean sauce. Transfer to a serving plate, fold in half and then in half again to form a triangle. Overlap three folded tortillas per plate.
- 07
Garnish heavily and serve immediately.
Ladle an extra spoonful of the velvety bean sauce over the top. Drizzle aggressively with crema in a zigzag pattern, then shower the plate with crumbled queso fresco, thin white onion slices, and fresh parsley.
Notes
Sourcing the right avocado leaves.
Ensure you are using dried Mexican avocado leaves (Persea drymifolia), found in most Latin markets. Common Hass avocado leaves lack the essential oils and can be toxic. If unavailable, substitute 1/8 teaspoon of toasted fennel seed to mimic the necessary anise flavor profile.
The importance of soft-frying the tortillas.
Dipping a raw tortilla straight into wet bean purée results in a disintegrating mush. Passing the tortillas through hot oil creates a lipid barrier, ensuring they hold their structure while soaking up the sauce.
From Cook Oaxacan in America.