El Vibrante Chileajo de Vegetales

Before you start

• Prepare an ice bath.

  Fill a large bowl with cold water and ice cubes, setting it near the stove so you can quickly halt the cooking process of the vegetables.

Ingredients

• waxy potatoes1 lb
• carrots3 large
• fresh green beans1/2 lb
• fresh or frozen green peas1 cup
• dried Guajillo chiles8 large
• dried Ancho chiles2 large
• cloves garlic8 large
• apple cider vinegar1/3 cup
• dried Mexican oregano1 tsp
• dried thyme1/2 tsp
• whole allspice berries3 small
• whole cloves2 small
• Mexican cinnamon stick1 small
• fine sea salt1 1/2 tsp
• neutral oil2 tbsp
• crisp corn tostadas12 med
• refried black beans1 1/2 cup
• queso fresco1 cup
• white onion1/2 med

Method

1. 01

   Toast the chiles lightly in a dry skillet, then submerge them in boiling water to soften.

   Heat a dry skillet over medium heat and toast the Guajillo and Ancho chiles for 10 to 15 seconds per side until fragrant. Do not let them burn, or they will turn bitter. Transfer to a bowl, cover with boiling water, and soak for 20 to 30 minutes until plump.

2. 02

   Boil each vegetable individually in heavily salted water until just tender, then immediately shock in an ice bath.

   This is the secret to crisp, vibrant vegetables. Drop potatoes into boiling water for 8 to 10 minutes, scoop out, and plunge into ice water. Repeat with the carrots for 4 to 5 minutes, green beans for 3 to 4 minutes, and peas for 1 to 2 minutes. Drain thoroughly and combine in a large mixing bowl.

3. 03

   Grind the whole spices, then blend with the softened chiles, garlic, vinegar, herbs, and salt until completely smooth.

   Grind the allspice, cloves, and cinnamon stick into a powder using a mortar or spice grinder. Transfer to a blender with the soaked chiles, garlic, apple cider vinegar, oregano, thyme, salt, and about 3/4 cup of the chile soaking liquid. Blend on high until perfectly smooth, straining if your blender leaves tough skins behind.

4. 04

   Fry the blended chile purée in hot oil to mellow the raw garlic and deepen the flavor.

   Heat the neutral oil in a saucepan over medium heat. Carefully pour in the blended sauce, taking care as it will sputter violently. Simmer and stir constantly for 8 to 10 minutes until it thickens into a deep, dark brick red. Remove from heat and let cool slightly.

5. 05

   Toss the blanched vegetables with the warm sauce until thoroughly coated.

   Fold the warm chileajo into the vegetables until every piece is covered. You can serve this immediately, but it is vastly better if covered and refrigerated for at least 4 hours, or ideally overnight, allowing the vinegar and garlic to fully penetrate the potatoes.

6. 06

   Build the tostadas with a base of warm refried beans, a generous mound of the marinated vegetables, and traditional garnishes.

   Spread warmed black beans over each crisp tostada. Top with a heavy scoop of the cold chileajo, then finish with crumbled queso fresco and thin slices of raw white onion.

Notes

• Replicating the elusive Chilcostle pepper.

  Authentic Mixtecan chileajo relies on the endemic Chilcostle chile, which is virtually impossible to find in an American suburb. A blend of primarily Guajillo with a little Ancho chile expertly mimics its earthy, mildly spicy, and complex profile.

• Stick to waxy potatoes.

  You must use Yukon Gold or Red Bliss potatoes for this dish. Russets will absorb too much water and disintegrate into mush when boiled and tossed.