El Mukbilpollo
(el mook-beel-poy-oh)
Domingos and the American Píib: Slow-Roasted Centerpieces
This isn't a three-day project involving a smoking backyard trench. In the Yucatán, November smells like woodsmoke and earthy achiote. Faking a traditional pit roast on a Tuesday night means lining a cast-iron Dutch oven with blistered banana leaves and packing it with achiote-stained chicken. The secret is the achiote-infused lard and the k'óol—a thick masa gravy that goes inside the pie to keep it incredibly moist during the long bake. Fold the banana leaves tight across the masa and let a 400°F oven do the heavy lifting.
Before you start
Wash the meats to erase the raw poultry smell.
Yucatecan grandmas are meticulous about removing what they call k'omoj. Rinse your raw chicken and pork in the orange juice, lime juice, and white vinegar mixture, rubbing the citrus into the meat, then briefly rinse with cold water before cooking.
Tame the banana leaves so they don't shatter.
Raw banana leaves are brittle and will snap if folded. Pass the leaves slowly over an open gas burner or a dry hot skillet for a few seconds per side. The heat brings the natural oils to the surface, turning the leaf glossy, dark green, and pliant.
Ingredients
- boneless pork shoulder1 lb
- boneless skinless chicken thighs1 1/2 lb
- fresh orange juice1/4 cup
- fresh lime juice1/4 cup
- white vinegar1 tsp
- water6 cup
- white onion1 large
- garlic cloves6 med
- achiote paste50 g
- dried oregano1 tbsp
- whole allspice berries1 tsp
- salt1 tbsp
- fresh epazote2 sprig
- pork lard1 1/2 cup
- achiote paste2 tbsp
- reserved meat broth4 cup
- masa harina1/2 cup
- cold water1 cup
- tomato1 large
- habanero pepper1 med
- masa harina4 cup
- warm chicken broth3 cup
- salt1 tsp
- cooked black-eyed peas1 cup
- frozen banana leaves2 large
Method
- 01
Simmer the meats to build the foundational broth.
Bring the water to a boil in a large Dutch oven. Add the pork chunks first and boil for 30 minutes, then add the chicken thighs and skim off any foam. Add the charred onion, garlic, 50g achiote paste, oregano, allspice, 1 tbsp salt, and epazote. Lower the heat, cover, and simmer for another 40 minutes until both meats are fall-apart tender.
- 02
Shred the meat and reserve the liquid gold.
Remove the meats, shred them roughly with two forks, and set aside. Strain the remaining broth and reserve it; you will need this heavily spiced liquid for both the crust and the gravy.
- 03
Infuse the lard with achiote.
Melt the pork lard in a small saucepan over medium-low heat. Crumble in the 2 tablespoons of achiote paste and simmer gently for 5 minutes, whisking until the lard turns a deep, fiery red-orange. Remove from heat and let it cool slightly.
- 04
Build the k'óol, your essential moisture trap.
Bring 4 cups of the strained meat broth to a gentle simmer in a saucepan. Whisk the 1/2 cup of masa harina with 1 cup of cold water until completely smooth. Slowly pour this slurry into the simmering broth, whisking constantly. Add the chopped tomato and whole habanero. Keep stirring over medium heat until the broth thickens into a rich, glossy gravy that coats the back of a spoon, about 8-10 minutes. Fold the shredded meat back into this gravy and remove from heat.
- 05
Knead the achiote masa.
In a massive mixing bowl, combine the 4 cups of masa harina and 1 tsp salt. Pour in 3 cups of warm chicken broth and mix with your hands until it feels like soft play-dough. Pour in the warm achiote lard and knead it aggressively into the dough until the masa is uniformly orange, rich, and slightly greasy. Gently fold in the black-eyed peas.
- 06
Assemble the American Píib.
Preheat your oven to 375°F. Grease a 9x13 inch rectangular baking dish. Line the pan completely with the softened banana leaves, letting plenty of excess hang over the edges. Press about two-thirds of the masa firmly into the bottom and up the sides of the pan to build a quarter-inch thick masa bowl. Pour the entire meat and k'óol mixture into this bowl.
- 07
Seal the tamal pie.
Press the remaining masa out on a piece of parchment paper to form a flat lid. Flip this lid over to cover the pie, peeling away the parchment, and pinch the edges of the top and bottom masa together to seal the gravy inside. Fold the overhanging banana leaves tightly over the top of the masa to enclose it entirely. Cover the pan tightly with aluminum foil to trap the steam.
- 08
Bake until set.
Bake for 1.5 hours. Remove the foil, fold back the top banana leaves just a bit, and bake for another 30 minutes to allow the top crust to dry out and crisp up slightly. Let it rest for at least 20 minutes before slicing.
Notes
The sour orange substitution works perfectly.
True Seville sour oranges are rare in US supermarkets. The mix of fresh orange juice, lime juice, and a splash of white vinegar is chemically identical and delivers the exact necessary acidity and aroma.
Serve with xnipec.
A bright salsa of pickled red onions, habanero, and sour orange is the traditional and necessary pairing to cut through the rich, earthy fat of the pie.